Barra - Over the Tops

No visit to Barra is complete without a hike over the tops. Many visitors are happy just climbing Heabhal, at nearly 1300 feet the summit of Barra. Aside from the view, the highlight of the climb is spending some time with Our Lady, Star of the Sea.

Standing there, high atop Barra, you can congratulate yourself with having the hardest part behind you. Don't throw that hard work away and just descend back to Castlebay. From the summit of Heabhal three grand walks are available. I have written before of the hike over to Hartabhal and back to Castlebay. I've also written of the long walk from Heabhal down through the Dark Glen (see Book 2, chapter 6). But I've not written about another walk, one I made several years ago: the walk from Heabhal to Beul a' Bhealaich, and then down to the sea at Craigston.

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The rolling hilltops were especially appealing on the dry, spring afternoon, when I made the easy traverse from Heabhal to Hartbhal. Then, a magnificent ridge walk, a gradual descent of 600 feet, took me down to Beul a' Bhealaich; the main hill pass between east and west Barra.

Along the way I was granted a view to tiny Loch Uisge, with Beinn Tangabhal in the distance.

From the pass I carried to the northwest for a half-mile, where a giant pile of stones came into view. That pile was Dun Bharpa, a massive Neolithic chambered cairn, 20 feet high and 100 feet in diameter.

The cairn is surrounded by a series of 15 standing stones, their bases buried in the outer margins of the cairn. On the top of the cairn lies the large capstone that covered the inner chamber. The stone is massive, 10 feet by 6 feet, and a foot thick.

From the cairn I had planned to carry on for another half-mile north to explore the Iron Age farmstead and souterrian known as Tigh-Talamhanta. But the ground was so swampy that I decided to head down to the coast instead. So I headed southwest to find the Balnacraig (Craigston) track, which took me past the Church of St Brendan to the Barra ring road. 

From there I had a three-mile road walk back to Castlebay. Passing, along the way, the white sands of Halaman Bay.

As I passed through Tangusdale this old house caught my attention.  I knew I'd seen it before, as there is a photo of how it looked 60 years ago in one of Alasdair Alpin Macgregor's books.

Next up was Loch Tangasdail, home to Dun McLeod (15th century). The little tower is also known as Castle St Clair. I have been tempted, on several occasions, to swim out and explore the ruin.

I was on the homestretch, and a half hour later wearily stumbled into the Craigaird Hotel to seek refreshment. A look at the map showed I walked eight miles, so I decided I'd earned a double refreshment.

Merry Christmas

Every winter I think back on an extraordinary day in 1998 when I climbed the snowy slopes of Heaval on the island of Barra. At an elevation of 900 feet, 350 feet below the summit, I came to the statue of Our Lady Star of the Sea.

The name Star of the Sea comes from this prayer attributed to St Bernard: If the winds of temptation arise, look to the star. If you are tossed upon the waves, look to the star; call on Mary. Intercession for help while being tossed upon the waves was very important for island communities, whose livelihood depended on the sea, and where drowning deaths were common. The statue, carved by Hew Lorimer, depicts the child Jesus sitting on Mary’s shoulder, his left hand holding aloft the Star of the Sea. This will be the 65th Christmas the two of them have held a beacon of hope over the Barra Isles.

Merry Christmas!

Beinn Tangabhal via the Hebridean Way

My wife and I ended our Hebridean trip last August with a stay on Barra. I had been reading about the new Hebridean Way, a long-distance path that begins on Vatersay, and ends 185 miles north at the Butt of Lewis. While I was on Barra I wanted to walk some of the path, and I also wanted to climb Beinn Tangabhal, as I had not been up there for 20 years.

As it turns out, just where the Hebridean Way crosses the Vatersay causeway, it continues north by ascending the western shoulder of Beinn Tangabhal, which at just over 1000 feet elevation, is the third highest peak on Barra. The high point of that section of the path comes within 1000 feet distance, and 250 feet elevation, of the summit of Tangabhal; and so I decided make a climb up the mountain via the Hebridean Way.

The 'official' start of the path is marked by an iron marker, just opposite the Vatersay Community Hall.

The route then follows the road around to the Vatersay Causeway; but if you have the energy, a better way is to climb north over Heiseabhal Mor, the highest point on Vatersay. The views far outweigh the exertion required to get there.

Vatersay Causeway seen from slopes of Heiseabhal Mor

After descending from the high ground of Vatersay, you cross the causeway, then carry on along the road 1500 feet to the east. Here the Hebridean Way finally leaves the road to head up into the hills.

As you start to climb, just above the road, you pass a very historic site: the Allt Chrysal Roundhouse.

Just offshore here I saw the boat Boy James. Under its previous skipper, Donald Beg, Boy James had taken me to the islands of Pabbay, Bernera, and Sandray - good times. Although Donald Beg no longer skippers the boat, it still does trips to the uninhabited islands south of Barra.

Boy James in the Sound of Vatersay

Just above the Allt Crysal roundhouse I came upon the first waymarker for the Hebridean Way.

As I climbed north, the view opened up to the east. Unfortunately it was a misty day, and as I climbed that view gradually disappeared. After ascending 800 feet the trig-pillar on the summit of Beinn Tangabhal appeared in the cold mist.

The summit was fascinating. Twenty years had passed since I was last here, and the mist that came and went with the wind made for quite an ethereal experience.

After enjoying the view (and a beer), I headed back to the Hebridean Way, which I followed down to the sands of Halaman Bay.

After reaching sea-level, the route went through through the sands of Halaman Bay to the Barra Ring Road. It was an amazing hike, one that I can highly recommend. I ended the hike with a two-mile road walk back to Castlebay, where I rewarded myself with a pint at the Craigard Hotel.

Halaman Bay and Tangasdal

Atop Beinn Tangabhal

At just over 1,000 feet, Beinn Tangabhal is the second highest peak on Barra.  Being number two has its advantages. If you climb Number One (Heabhal) in the summer, you will probably have company. For instance, I was sitting atop Heabhal on a fine June day, eating my lunch, when a dog accompanying some hikers took a bite out of my sandwich. But if you make your way to the top of Beinn Tangabhal chances are you won't see another soul (or hungry dogs).

I apologize that the photos in this post are a bit dark, with poor colour, and out of focus. They are from my first visit to Barra way back in 1993, when I was using a cheap film camera. Here is a 25-year-old view of Castlebay as seen from the climb up Beinn Tangabhal during a stormy day. 

The views from the summit of Tangabhal south over the Barra Isles, and east over Castlebay, are as fine as you'll find on Heabhal. I especially liked the view looking north up the west coast of Barra.

Lying at the foot of the hill is Loch Tangasdail, and from the slopes of Beinn Tangabhal you can see the tower of Dùn Mhic Leòid on its tiny island in the loch, the holy well of St Columba, and the white sands of Halaman Beach.

So next time you find yourself on Blue Barra of the Waves, be sure to pay a visit to the top of Beinn Tangabhal. It is the beginning of a long loop walk that continues southwest to traverse the head of remote Glenn Bretadail, before returning to the road near the Vatersay causeway and the amazing wheelhouse remains at Allt Crisal. A walk not to be missed.

Barra View

I will be off-line for a couple weeks, so I thought I'd leave you with my favourite view in all the Hebrides. It is Castlebay seen from the slopes of Heaval, with the islands of Vatersay, Sandray, Pabbay, Mingulay, and Barra Head floating off in the distance. 

Castlebay seen from the slopes of Heaval

Kisimul Castle - Atop the Now Forbidden Tower

I fondly recall my first visit to Kisimul Castle. I had wanted to see the castle ever since reading the tale of how a piper would stand atop the castle ramparts every evening after the chief had his supper, and proclaim:

"The MacNeil has eaten, the lesser princes of the earth may now dine."

That first visit to Barra was in 1993. The ferry from Oban arrived in the dark at 11pm. And as we approached Castlebay we could clearly see the castle, seeming to rise out of the sea, brightly illuminated by several spotlights. It was an amazing sight. The next day we took a little boat out to the castle, where we were allowed to wander at will.

The highlight of seeing the castle was climbing to the top of the tower and stepping out onto the ramparts. All of Castlebay could be seen, with Heabhal towering high above the village. The tower-top remains one of my favourite places in the isles. I did not know it at the time, but I would never be able to stand there again.

My wife on the tower roof

Standing at one of my favourite places in the isles. Was this where the piper stood?

The next time I visited Kisimul I was looking forward to climbing the tower and stepping out onto the ramparts again. Coincidentally, my visit was at the same time as a Clan MacNeil gathering, and there were several MacNeils on the boat to visit the Castle. But when we reached the top of the interior stairs we found that the door to the roof was locked. I made my way back down to the entrance kiosk to ask if they could open the door. They looked at me as if I was crazy. Why would anyone want to go out there? They refused to open the door, and so I left a bit disgruntled. At least I have that memory of standing atop the tower back in 1993.

A Barra Walk

On a foggy Barra day in 2012 I drove to the north end of the island and parked near the old chapel and burial ground of Cille Bharra. My little car looked a little lonely in the little empty lot; little did I know, that while I would be out hiking, the car park would fill up and block access to my car.

My goal was to walk up to the high ground at the north end, and spend some time watching airplanes land on the beach of Traigh Mhor. The first photo shows the two amazing beaches that sit astride the northern peninsula: Traigh Mhor and Traigh Uais. I wonder if this sandy isthmus qualifies as a gigantic tombolo.

Looking south from Beinn Eolaigearraidh

From Cille Bharra I hiked around the old walled garden of Eoligarry House. The house was demolished quite a while ago, and in its place there are several blocks of non-descript apartments. All that's left of Eoligarry House are the garden walls, and inside them is the RC Church of St Vincent DePaul. My wife and I attended Mass there once, as it was advertised as being in Gaelic. But, disappointingly, it was 'anns a' Beurla' (in English).

I found a gateway through the old wall, and then headed north-west to the summit of Dun Sgurabhal.

Traigh Mhor and the airfield terminal buildings

Dun Sgurabhal is an Iron Age galleried dun that sits atop the hill. It is sadly dilapidated, so I did not linger for long.

Dun Scurabhal

A cave is marked on the OS map just to the south of the summit of Dun Sgurabhal; ever the cave lover I decided to pay it a visit. I found its small entrance below the lip of a short cliff, and as I stepped into the dark cave I got quite a fright as a whole flock of pigeons suddenly took flight from the back of the cave.

Cave below Dun Sgurabhal

From the cave I climbed to the top of Beinn Eolaigearraidh. At 102 metres it's the highest bit of ground at the north end of Barra, and provided some amazing views.

Looking north from the summit of Ben Eolaigearraidh - Dun Sgurabhal (left), Ben Sgurabhal (right)

I made myself comfortable at the top of the hill and cracked open a beer. While waiting for the plane to fly in from Benbecula I noticed the ferry from Eriskay on its way south to Barra.

The ferry from Eriskay traverses the Sound of Barra

Below me lay the vast beach of Traigh Eais. Wondering what the name means, I just looked up 'Eais' in Dwelly's Gaelic dictionary. Nothing was listed. So I dug out my favorite book on Barra, AA MacGregor's Summer Days Among the Western Isles. There was no definition of the name there, either. However MacGregor spelled it 'Traigh Uais', and 'Uais' is listed in Dwelly's as relating to the word 'Uasal; a word that means something noble. So perhaps the name of the beach comes from its location near Eoligarry House, where the MacNeil's lived after abandoning Kisimul Castle: i.e., The Beach of the Noble-Man. Or perhaps it simply means 'The Noble Beach', for it is quite grand.

Traigh Uais - the Noble Beach?

Right on time I heard the buzz of an airplane, and looked up to see the Twin Otter descending across Traigh Uais.

Flight from Benbecula on the approach to Traigh Mhor

After finishing the beer I descended the hill to return to my car, parked down at Cille Bharra. When I got there I was surprised to see about 30 cars in the small car park; my little hire car blocked in at the rear of the lot. A funeral was in progress, and so I sat to the side as the mourners slowly departed. It was an interesting way to spend the end of an interesting hike on one of my favorite islands. 

Full car park - Cille Bharra

Funeral at Cille Bharra