Loch Enoch

One of my favourite Scottish books is J McBain's The Merrick and the Neighbouring Hills (1929). His description of hikes in the interior of Galloway are fascinating; especially his visit to an unnamed island in the most remote loch in the country: Loch Enoch.

This unnamed island has its own little loch, and some say that the name 'Enoch' comes from 'Loch-in-loch'. Another, and more likely possibility, is that it is named after Teneu (St Enoch), the mother of St Mungo of Glasgow.

Arriving at Loch Enoch

I first wanted to visit this area after reading SR Crocket's novel The Raiders, as many scenes in the book take place in this remote country. But I never did anything about it until I after I read McBain's book. I was planning a stay in Girvan, in order to get out to Ailsa Craig, and I thought that a hike to Loch Enoch would make for a great day out if my plans to get to Ailsa were foiled (see chapter 2 of book 1). I did manage to do both: visit Ailsa and Loch Enoch, but I had to settle for seeing Enoch's little island from the shore. Most visitors will have to settle for the same view, because it is so remote that, as far as I know, no boat has ever been brought to the loch.

There are two usual routes to the loch; one is a six-mile trek from the south end of Loch Doon, the other (and the one I took) is a five-mile hike north from Loch Trool. From the Bruce Monument at Loch Trool I hiked a mile north to Culsharg bothy.

Culsharg Bothy

From Culsharg I followed the Buchan Burn north through forestry plantations and under the Rig of Loch Enoch. After bashing through some thick heather I reached the southwest corner of Loch Enoch. Rising across the loch was the brown hump of Mullwharchar, also know as Star Hill. 

Mullwharchar rises above the north shore of Enoch - in the foreground is the island

I had lunch on a small sandy beach looking over to the island. Oh how I wanted to set foot on it, but I was not in the mood for a cold swim. J M'Bain in The Merrick and the Neighbouring Hills describes how he got to the island by visiting it in the winter when the loch was frozen, and he was able to walk to the island. Maybe I'll come back in the winter sometime and try to follow in his icy footsteps.

The isle of Enoch - its own small loch can be seen to the right

From Loch Enoch I climbed Dungeon Hill and then returned to Loch Trool via the Murder Hole of Loch Neldricken. It was a great day on the hills, one I will remember forever.

A Walk Around Kebock Head - Lewis

Kebock Head, on the east coast of Pairc (Lewis), is one of the least visited parts of the Hebrides. I've only visited it once, on a six-mile, one-way hike from Grabhair to Leumrabhagh. Although Kebock Head is 160 miles from the island of Little Cumbrae, they may be linked in history; for its Gaelic name is A' Chabag, a name that usually refers to a toothless woman; but it may be a dedication to a St Bey. There were several female saints with names similar to Bey, and one was an early saint who called the island of Little Cumbrae her home. (See book 1, chapter 2 for the story of a visit of Little Cumbrae to find the chapel and grave of St Bey.)

I made the walk around Kebock Head in 2012 with John Randall, Chairman of the Islands Book Trust at the time. We started by driving to the end of the road at Tom an Fhuadain, a mile east of Grabhair, on the south shore of Loch Odhairn. From Tom an Fhuadain it was a rough, two miles to Kebock Head, where out in the Minch we could clearly see the Shiants. From there we walked south along the cliff-tops past Gob na Milaid to Cuiriseal. 

Beach at Mol Stiogh a' Chragain 

The settlement at Cuiriseal was famous for its boat building, and looking down from the clifftop we could see the stony beach of Mol Stiogh a' Chragain. It was there that the Smiths of Cuiriseal launched their boats. Although how they got them down the steep slope to the shore is a mystery (to me, anyway). Scattered about the moorland above the beach are several farmsteads, shielings, and large plots of once cultivated land.

Beehive type shieling at Cuiriseal

Old cultivation ridges at Cuiriseal

 House ruin at Cuiriseal

Cuiriseal Shieling

On the shore south of Cuiriseal we could see a large, detached rock, known as Stac a' Chomhraig. I think the name means something like 'Battle Stack'. I have been unable to find any history on the name, or what, if any, battle took place there.

Stac a' Chomhraig - Shiants in the distance

Stac a' Chomhraig

From Stac a' Chomhraig John and I headed due west to 'cut the corner' off the south tip of the peninsula; after passing Lochan Tobhta Ruairidh Dhuibh (the loch of the ruin of black haired Rory) we crossed Gleann Ceann Eastail.  

Looking west over the mouth of Gleann Ceann Eastail

From there it was only a few minutes walk to Leumrabhagh.

Old jetty near Leumrabhagh

Looking north to Leumrabhagh

It was an amazing walk across some historical, but rarely visited country; made all the more interesting by John Randall's extensive knowledge of the area. If you are interested in the boat builders of Cuiriseal, see this link for more information.

Great Cumbrae - To the Top

To get to Great Cumbrae I left my car in Largs and walked onto the Loch Shira for the short crossing.

Once ashore I found the start of the Broomy Knowles footpath that climbs up the spine of the island.

The grassy path ended a kilometer short of the summit of the island. Then a 15 minute road walk led to the top where I found the trig pillar and view indicator.

From the top I could see Wee Cumbrae (next photo). If you look closely at Wee Cumbrae you can see the old coal-burning light tower at its highest point, and Wee Cumbrae Castle can be seen on the small islet to the left. I could also see the spire of the Cathedral of the Isles in Millport (at far left of the photo). My next stop would be Millport, where I hoped to find someone who could take me to Wee Cumbrae.

Lion Rock - Great Cumbrae

This is Lion Rock on Great Cumbrae. It does indeed look like a lion climbing up the island on the lookout for a tasty tourist to eat. I ventured over to Great Cumbrae a few years ago hoping to find someone who could take me to Wee Cumbrae. I did find someone, and in the process spent two days wandering around Great Cumbrae. Over the next few posts I will share some of the sights I saw along the way.