Point of Sleat

After writing the last post on IKEA lighthouses, I remembered another memorable minor light I'd visited long ago; one that has also been replaced by an IKEA tower. This particular light stood at one of the most iconic locations in the Hebrides, the Point of Sleat, the southernmost tip of the isle of Skye. Anyone who has taken the Calmac ferry to Canna or Rum has come within a mile of the point. Although I've sailed past it a dozen times, I've only visited it once.

That visit was way back in 1997. My wife and I were staying at the Eilean Iarmain Hotel, and on our last morning I decided to get up early and walk to the point. (I had a lot more energy back then. These days I like to sleep in). A ten-mile drive took me to the end of the road, where there was a small parking area. From there it was an enjoyable two-mile hike out to the light; passing, along the way, a half-dozen abandoned crofts. 

The light I visited dated to 1934. Unlike IKEA towers it had an external ladder that allowed you to climb to the balcony. As described in my journal entry for that day, from the top of the tower you could see the internal workings of the light:

...looking into the lantern room you could see a small mantle, like on a gas lantern, set to a low burn. Every 10 seconds (not sure, didn't think to measure it) a stream of more gas pulsed into the mantle to make it glow brighter for a second. 

My estimate was a bit off, as the Pilot's Guide for Skye says the beacon flashes every three seconds. The light I saw in 1997 was replaced by this IKEA tower in 2003.

It was probably photos like the next one, of a suspicious-looking vagrant messing around the light, that led them to put up towers that can not be climbed.

What is an IKEA Lighthouse?

So, what exactly is an IKEA lighthouse?

A lighthouse enthusiast was on my 2019 guided cruise last July. As we were motoring past the Garvellach Isles he mentioned we were passing an IKEA lighthouse, and I had to ask what he meant. It turns out the term refers to the modern pre-fab beacons the Northern Lighthouse Board puts up when an old minor light needs to be replaced. Over the years I'd noticed several of these utilitarian towers had replaced the more traditional beacons seen in years past. 

The IKEA tower on the Garvellachs replaced a light I'd first seen in 1997, that I believe was built in 1904. It was a more elegant structure than the tower that replaced it, and even more interesting because you could climb up onto to its small balcony.

The beacon that replaced it in 2003, while functional, does not allow for the wandering island bagger to climb to its top.  I discovered this on a visit in 2016. Although you can climb the rocks to the base of the tower, it is not possible to get up on top.

Another example of this modernization is the beacon at Aird Laimisiader, two miles west of Carloway in Lewis. On a hike there over 20 years ago, as described in Chapter 18 of Book 2, I walked to the old beacon at the tip of the headland, which dated to 1892.

Over a decade passed before I walked that way again, when I discovered the old beacon had been replaced by one of the IKEA variety.

As the years pass these IKEA towers might become as iconic as those they replace. For we will probably see even more utilitarian structures in these remote spots: tiny Wi-Fi beacons pinging out their locations to warn self-piloted boats that danger lurks.

Flannan Isles Memorial

During our stay on Lewis we paid a visit to the memorial to the Flannan Island lightkeepers. Built by Seamus Crawford of Uig, it was dedicated on December 15, 2017.

The memorial is in Breasclete, a few hundred metres east of the pier used by the lightkeepers, and an equal distance west of their shore station. The memorial depicts a looming bronze wave sweeping towards a granite boulder topped by a sandstone lighthouse. An event in December of 1900 that killed all three lightkeepers.

I believe the Gaelic wording on the plaque reads something like:

We leave

To the protecting light

To stay the darkness of the night

Pslam 89.9: You rule over the surging sea

When its waves rise you still them

A Walk to Isle Ornsay

One by one, over the years, I've made a point to visit sites associated with Gavin Maxwell. My interest dates back nearly 50 years to the movie Ring of Bright Water. The movie made quite an impression on me when I saw it at age 12 in the Orpheum Theatre in Seattle.

The first Maxwell site I visited was in 2008, when I set foot on the island of Soay (near Skye), where he had his shark-oil factory (see the December 17, 2016 post). The story of the shark fishery is told in his first book Harpoon at a Venture (1952).

Soay

My next Maxwell pilgrimage was to Eilean Bhan, the lighthouse island now under the Skye Bridge, that Maxwell owned for a while (see the July 18, 2013 post). Of all the Maxwell sites, Eilean Bhan is the easiest to visit, as there are regular tours. On the tour you will be able to see inside the cottage, climb the lighthouse, visit a beautiful wildlife hide, and see Teko's memorial stone.

View from the top of Eilean Bhan lighthouse

Teko's memorial stone

Of course the premiere Maxwell pilgrimage site is Sandaig, a small bay south of Eilean Bhan, and the site of his Camusfearna. I made the hike there last year (see the August 30, 2016 post).  A memorial to Maxwell lies on the site of his house, which burned in 1968. Under some nearby trees is Edal's memorial, the Ring of Bright Water otter that died in the fire.

There was still one remaining Maxwell site I wanted to see; so before heading to the Western Isles last July my wife and I spent a few days at the Eilean Iarmain Hotel on Skye. On the first full day, which was overcast with occasional rain showers, I checked the tide tables. Low water was at 4pm, and so at 2pm I left the hotel to walk a short way to the shore. Off to the east lay my destination: the lighthouse of Isle Ornsay. Along with the cottages on Eilean Bhan, five miles to the northeast, Maxwell bought the Ornsay cottages in 1961 (some sources say 1966).

The tide flats were a bit muddy, but very walkable if I kept close to the shore. The total distance to the lighthouse is a mile, and the halfway point is the island of Ornsay. The lighthouse is actually on yet another tidal island, Eilean Sionnaich, which means either fox or seagull island. I would guess the latter definition is correct, as there were no foxes around, but there were plenty of gulls wheeling high overhead.

Tide flats to Isle Ornsay (at left)

Low tide crossing to Eilean Sionnaich

A curious set of seahorse-balustrades topped the seawall that guards the tidal track up to the island. (Or maybe they're water-horses?)

Just above the seawall lay the forlorn walled garden. A garden of grass and weeds; it's been a long time since any crops have been cultivated here.

Between the garden and the lighthouse stood the two side by side cottages. Maxwell's intent for the cottages, as well as those on Eilean Bhan, is summarized in this excerpt from Richard Frere's excellent book Maxwell's Ghost:  'His idea was to renovate his purchases and, using their splendid wild situations and his well-known name as joint inducements, let them to the public at enormous rents.'

As described in Frere's book, the Isle Ornsay cottages were refurbished and let out to holiday makers during Maxwell's ownership. These days the cottages are private residences for the Sedgwicks. They are fortunate to have a place like this. In an area busy with tourists a more isolated place would be hard to find. (Except for the occasional nosy hiker passing by.)

There was no one in residence when I visited. Which was for the best, as I would not have gone near the cottages if anyone was there. For that matter, I'd have felt awkward even passing near them to see the lighthouse. Set next to the cottages is a beautiful memorial stone to the actress Paulita Sedgwick.

Just beyond the cottages a walkway leads to the lighthouse. On 10 November 1857, both this light, and the one on Eilean Bhan, became operational. Keepers lived here until automation came in the early 1960s.

I enjoyed a snack before crossing back across the still dry shingle beach to Isle Ornsay. Before continuing I took a look at the map, and noticed there was a burial ground and chapel site on the nearby slopes of Isle Ornsay. I love finding these old chapels, and since the tide was still out I had time to look for it.

Once on Ornsay I made my way across a soggy field carpeted with tall grass. Since you can not see the ground, it can be treacherous to cross this kind of terrain. So I slowly made my way to a gate in a fence; a wire fence that seemed to encircle the whole island. Greeting me at the gate was a sign, its red letters not specifically saying 'KEEP OUT', but words to that effect: 'Please respect the privacy of the owner, and keep to the shore side of the fence.'

I would indeed respect their privacy by avoiding any houses. But I had every right to look for the old burial ground and chapel. So I climbed the fence and hiked up the grassy hillside. There was no trace of a chapel ruin that was seen here in 1928, but I knew I was in the right place because of a large, worn tombstone, on a level site that looked over to the lighthouse. (See this CANMORE page for more on the chapel that once stood here.)

It was a beautiful spot, and the owners have done a wonderful job of landscaping.

After enjoying this lovely place for a while I headed back to the shore to follow a meager path to the tidal crossing. The return to Skye was as messy as the walk out, as the route is half on gravel, half on mud flats. Even so, I meandered a little, taking time to explore two small islets before the tide isolated them. Along the way there were good views over to the hotel - the pub looked especially inviting.

After changing out of my muddy pants my wife and I enjoyed an excellent meal at the pub. After that we walked to the shore below the hotel. The tide was high, and Eilean Sionnaich was, once again, an island; its tower lit to a brilliant white by the setting sun.

Old Scalpay Light

Scalpay lighthouse is an impressive sight, one most people only see from the Uig to Tarbert ferry. But you can get a closer look by making the mile-long hike from the end of the road on Scalpay. The tower seen today was built in the 1820s. But hiding below it is the original lighthouse, the first built in the Western Isles. It dates to the 1780s, and used whale oil burned in front of a reflector. 

The artist William Daniell spent a night on Scalpay in 1818, and produced an aquatint drawing of the old lighthouse.

Old Scalpay light - 1818

Same scene - nearly 200 years later

In the previous photo you can just see the top of the old light to the right of new tower. The shell of the old tower is intact, but its interior has almost completely rotted away. And it will only get worse, as just a few timbers remain of its roof; allowing rain, wind, and birds in to do more damage.  

The old light - some 230 years old

With such a historic destination, the walk to Scalpay lighthouse is a great starter to introduce someone to Hebridean hiking. The terrain is boggy in a few places, and it is easy to lose sight of the marker posts, but the walk is so short that you can't really get lost (though there may be times when you may think you're lost). You can read a description of the hike here.

Inside the old Scalpay tower

Flannan Shore Station

At Breasclete, a mile and a half north of the Callanish stones, is an impressive building that was once the shore station for the keepers of the Flannan light. Like the lighthouse, which lies 30 miles to west, it was completed in 1899. When the light was automated in 1971 there was no need for a shore station, which has since been converted into a block of apartments.

Breasclete Shore Station (2015)

Breasclete Shore Station

Above the door is a depiction of the Flannan light on its sea-girt rock with the words In Salutem Omnium (for the safety of all). My picture of it (below) is a little grainy. I did not want to trespass, so I had to settle from taking a distant photo from the street. See this CANMORE page for more on Breasclete (and a better photo of the emblem).

Flannan Light depiction over the door

Flannan Light

Uisinis Light - North Uist

Standing on a remote corner of South Uist is little Uisinis light. It was established in 1858 and automated in 1970. The nearest road to the light is at Loch Skiport, some 5 miles away; so to get to Uisinis requires either a long walk, a boat and a short walk, or a helicopter.

Location of Uisinis light

I have not made the long walk from Loch Skiport, though I hope to someday. My visit to Uisinis only required a two-and-a-half mile round-trip walk from Mol a' Tuath (the rocky north beach). Mol a' Tuath is a good anchorage, and is where they landed supplies for the light. There is a small shed there, and an overgrown track leads east to the light.

Mol a' Tuath and the shed

The shed - 1

The shed - 2

I first red about Uisinis in Keith Allardyce's book Scotland's Edge (1998). In it, the author describes a visit to the light with Iain Macleod, one of the attendants:

'...we reached a little shingled beach in a sheltered bay. Above the beach, Iain kept his 1958 Ford Dexter tractor, gleaming in a recent coat of blue paint, in a grand NLB shed.'

The author was then towed to the lighthouse in a trailer pulled by the tractor. The Ford has since been hauled away, and the shed is now anything but grand. The week before I’d seen the ruin of a tractor in a similar NLB shed on Barra Head, forty miles to the south; it was mouldering away, tilted on flat tires, with bits of faded blue paint barely showing under an ever-growing coat of rust.

Ford 3000 Tractor at Barra Head

From the shed it is a half-hour walk to the lighthouse. It is a bit of an anti-climax when the tower finally comes into view; as it is only 39 feet high. But being sited atop the cliff it is visible for nearly 20 miles. The keepers houses were dismantled when they automated the light, so there is not much of interest here other than the light itself, and its dramatic position atop the cliff, looking east to Skye over the Sea of the Hebrides.

Some day I hope to visit Uisinis again as part of a three day hike up the east coast of South Uist. I would start at Loch Aineort, and spend the night in Glen Corodale (see the March 14, 2014 post for a visit to Corodale). I'd then head up around Loch Corodale to spend the second night at Uisinis bothy. On the third day I'd swing by Uisinis light on the way out to the road at Loch Skiport. It would be a fantastic walk.

Here are a few photos of Uisinis from a visit made in August of 2015.