Remote Jura - Glengarrisdale

I have posted before on a long walk I made to Glengarrisdale on the northwest end of Jura. (It was also the subject of chapter 7 in Book 1.) That walk was made in 2010. Ten years have passed, and, sadly, I've not had a chance to return to Glengarrisdale. I say sad for two reasons: the first is that is is a beautiful walk, the second is that I left a friend there. His name is Skull, and I left him all alone, perched on a ledge in a shallow cave. In 2014 a reader sent me a note that Skull was still there, and someday I hope to return to see how he's doing.

Aside from seeing Skull, I'd like return to Glengarrisdale to once again traverse some of the most beautiful terrain I've ever hiked across. The long descent to the coast from the spine of the island crosses rolling glens separated by rocky ridges, with ever-present sea views laid out before you. The walk starts at the parking area at Road's End (NR 6695 9272). The information sign omits any mention of Glengarisdale, which lies three miles to the northwest.

What follows are scenes from the walk to Glengarrisdale that I hope will entice you to make that same journey, yourself.

After two hours of hiking the bothy at Glengarrisdale comes into view.

From the bothy there is a direct view north to Scarba. A view that includes the Corryvreakan whirlpool.

In the next photo you can see the gamekeeper's track. It is a good way to return to the road.

If you follow the gamekeeper's track back to the road, the sight of these two posts tells you your long trek is at an end. They hold the chain barrier that blocks the public from driving any farther north. From there is is only a few minutes of easy walking back to the parking area. If you've made the walk, be sure to reward yourself with a pint at the pub - only a 25 mile slow drive to the south.

The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 3

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 3 - Scarba

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Sunday, June 3 - Island #3 - Scarba

By the time we left Belnahua the sea-fog had started to clear, and as we passed Fladda it was good to see the sun glinting off the lighthouse.

And so it was under sunny skies that we sailed five miles south to anchor off Scarba, pausing along the way as several porpoise paid us a visit. They were a beautiful sight, but what was following them was not so beautiful. It was a small boat stalking the porpoise; its crew, equipped with a camera on a long stick, trying to get underwater footage of the porpoise.

Porpoise Stalkers

Although we’d already set foot on two islands, there was time for another. From our anchorage off the northeast corner of Scarba a short trip in the inflatable took us to Kilmory jetty, which lies just below Kilmory Lodge. The tide was too low to use the jetty, so we had to scrabble ashore on some nearby rocks.

Kilmory Lodge - jetty in foreground

The mercury was on the rise as I led the group past the lodge, and then on up the rough pony track that climbs the shoulder of Cruach Scarba. Our destination: a viewpoint over Jura and Corryvreakan.

Passing Loch Airigh a' Chruidh

Although the distance was only about two miles, it seemed much longer; both on account of the elevation gain (1000 feet), and the temperature. It had been 16 years since I’d made the walk in this direction, and I’d forgotten how many false summits would be encountered. After two hours in the sweltering heat we reached Carn a' Chibir, a pyramid of stones that marks the high point of the path. Here we took a seat to enjoy some fantastic views across the Gulf of Corryvreakan.

Carn a' Chibir and a view to Jura

We were so fortunate with the weather. Below is a photo of Carn a' Chibir I took last time I was there: visibility was about ten feet. (See the June 3, 2016 post for a description of that walk.)

After soaking in the view for a while we started back down the track. There were completely different views on they way down, including this one north to the island of Lunga.

Around 6 pm we were back aboard Hjalmar Bjorge. After a very full day (three islands, no less), we relaxed over a wonderful meal of roast pork.

The next morning the generator wake-up call happened, as always, at 7am. After the previous day's three-island walkabout, sore legs made it harder than usual to get out of the bunk. But the coffee called, and after a few cups, and a full breakfast, the anchor was raised and we set a course south to Keills on the mainland. At Keills we would visit Cill mo-Charmaig, the chapel of St Charmaig, and then attempt to land on his hermitage island, Eilean Mor Mhic O' Charmaig.

Breacan's Cave

The best island hikes are ones with historic destinations. One of my favorites was around the north of Jura, past a viewpoint of the Corryvreckan whirlpool, and on a wee bit farther to Uamh Bhreacain, Breacan's Cave.

Breacan's Cave

There are several other 'Breacan' place names at the north of Jura. A hill that rises above the cave is Aird Bhreacain (the heights of Breacan), and just offshore swirls the whirlpool of Coire Bhreacain. One of the Gaelic meanings of 'breac' is speckled. So it's possible the place names come from the speckled waters of the whirlpool. A traditional derivation is from Prince Brekan, who is said to have drowned when his fleet was caught in the whirlpool, and was buried in the cave. In its day it was a well defended cave, and remnants of a protective wall still stand.

The cave is 100 feet deep, and it was written in 1700 that there was a tomb and altar in the cave. It was also reported, in the 1800s, that a stone coffin was dug out of the cave, but all it contained was dust. On my first visit to the cave I was hoping to see what was left of the tomb. Once walking 50 feet past the outer wall I came to a giant slab lying on the ground.

The slab looked like it could have covered a grave, or been part of an altar. But a search of the cave floor showed no sign of a dug-out tomb. What was evident is that the cave is a regular shelter for the feral goats that roam the island, as the cave's floor was covered with a thick carpet of goat-pooh.

It was dark and dreary, so I didn't linger long in the pooh-covered cave. Once back outside I made a bad decision to take a shortcut across the island to make a more direct return to the car, which was parked at road's end on the other side of the island. That shortcut crosses the notch in the ridge you can see in the next photo taken from near the mouth of the cave.

It was a bad decision because it was stalking season, and I'd not inquired about any hunting activity. But I was lucky, and made it across without interfering with anyone. If you ever hike in deer country in season, always ask around to see if a hunt is on. If you ask, you may be surprised what you're told. The last time I asked about access, when I wanted to cross the Morsgail estate on Lewis, the keeper was happy to hear from me. He told me no worries, all his clients were fishing, not deer stalking. He also gave some tips on the area, and let me know there were people staying at a remote bothy that would welcome a visitor (see the Ardveg Walk post). So good things can come to those who ask.

Looking back to the headland of Breacan's Cave (on left) from the shortcut across the island

Although my walk in 1999 was inspired by wanting to see the cave, it led to an even better thing: discovering the beautiful, remote bay nearby. And so, six years later, I returned to camp there for a few days. Island hikes often lead to discovering something new, something that makes you want to return again and again. So take a hike on Jura, Islay, or any island. I'm sure you'll come across something surprising, something wonderful. Something that will bring you back, again and again.

Campsite near Breacan's Cave

Stranded on Jura

On my first visit to Jura, in 1999, my wife and I spent a week at the Isle of Jura Hotel. Every weekday we got used to the sight of a bus taking school children to Feolin, where the ferry to Islay departs. On our last morning on Jura the wind was howling, and the rain was coming down in buckets. And after breakfast we watched as the bus, full of excited children, passed the hotel in Craighouse, once again on its way to the ferry.

Shortly afterwards, we loaded our bags in the car, and set out for the ferry. Halfway there we saw the bus, still full of even more excited children, coming back to Craighouse. The driver waved us down and told us the ferry was not running: it was too stormy. Wanting to see what the Sound of Jura looked like we carried on to Feolin, and as we reached the jetty gale force winds rocked the car back and forth. Just beyond the jetty was an impressive sight; white-caps flowing and blowing through the Sound, of Jura. A ferry workers confirmed that we were indeed Stranded on Jura (has a nice sound to it, doesn't it).

So we turned around and returned to the hotel. Since no one could leave the island, no one could get there, and so our room was still available. So we unpacked and settled in for another night on Jura. It was far too stormy to do anything outside, so we spent the day reading. Normally I'd have been frustrated by not being able to get out for a walk, but I was still sore from a marathon walk to Breackan's Cave the previous day (see book 1, chapter 5). The storm subsided that evening, and the next day we returned to the mainland without incident.

Happy Halloween from Jura

No, I'm not on Jura now, but I hope Skull is. In the summer of 2010 I left him in a small cave in Glengarrisdale. I heard from someone (who sent me the second photo) that Skull was still there in the summer of 2014. Aside from deer hunters, I doubt if Glengarisdale receives many visitors in late October. But if one of them does wander into a small cave near the bothy, I hope Skull is there to give them a fright.

Skull  - 2010

Skull - 2014

Getting to Jura

Three boats been taken me to Jura: the Eilean Dhiura, the Sound of Gigha and Gemini. Sound of Gigha began life in the spring of 1966 as the Isle of Gigha. She capsized in the winter of that year, and after being refitted to be more stable she was renamed Sound of Gigha.

According to Wikipedia, Sound of Gigha made the Islay-Jura run from March of 1969 until July of 1998, when it was replaced by Eilean Dhiura. Something is wrong there, because my first visit to Jura was in the spring of 1999, and it was on Sound of Gigha. That visit included an amazing walk around the north end of Jura to see Corryvreakan (book 1, chapter 5).

Below are some photos of the three boats that took me to Jura. The other way to get there, and one I want to take someday, is the passenger ferry from Tayvallich.

Sound of Gigha at Port Askaig in 1999

Gemini arriving at Jura in 2005- Scarba in the distance

Eilean Dhiura at Port Askaig (2010)

Eilean Dhiura and the Caol Ila distillery (2010)

Eilean Dhiura on its way to Jura (2010)

Jura Campsite

In book 1 (chapter 6) there's a description of a three-day camping trip on the north end of Jura. Here are a few photos from that trip. The first three were taken on July 7, 2005. On the morning of that day I had climbed to a high point to get a phone connection, and when I talked to my wife back in Seattle she told me what had happened in London that morning.

The first photo shows the pillared cairn atop Aird Bhreacain. It was a great viewpoint over Bagh Gleann nam Muc to the north, and Glen Trosdale to the south. I sat on the cairn comfortably for over an hour, as the pillar made a natural backrest. There are a lot of 'Breacan" place names here; Aird Bhreacain means the high ground of Breacan; on the shore below lies Uamh Bhreacain, Breacan's Cave; and just offshore swirls the whirlpool of Coire Bhreacain. 

Pillared Cairn atop Aird Bhreacain

The next photo was also taken atop Aird Bhreacain, and is a close up of the shore of Bagh Gleann nam Muc, the bay of Pig Glen. If you look closely you can see the tent. 

Campsite on the shore of Bagh Gleann nam Muc

From my seat atop Aird Bhreacain I watched as a herd of deer grazed down in Glen Trosdale. Once they caught sight of me they ran away.

Deer watching me from Glen Trosdale

Back down in camp I started a fire and made dinner. It was a great campsite, made all the better as I did not see another soul during the three days.

Campsite at Bagh Gleann nam Muc 

Once the fire got going it was time to warm cold toes and enjoy a dram.

Warming cold toes - Fireside at Bagh Gleann nam Muc 

The next morning I awoke to the beautiful sight of sea-fog floating over a quiet Corryvreakan.

Early morning at Bagh Gleann nam Muc - Scarba in the distance

A few hours later the boat Gemini motored into the bay to pick me up, and all too soon I was on my way back to Crinan.

Gemini arrives - time to leave Jura