Scenes from atop Holy Island

Here are a few of the sights that you can see if you ever climb Mullach Mor, the tip-top of Holy Island. I chose to climb it from the north end of the island, which means first getting to the top of Mullach Beg (807 ft). On the way up the view gradually opens up to encompass the Buddhist settlement on the shore below, and the village of Lamlash over on Arran.

Lamlash seen on the ascent of Mullach Beg

Buddhist settlement and pier in 2002 - it's grown a bit since then

Summit cairn of Mullach Beg - Lamlash in the distance

From the top of Mullach Beg a short descent of about 100 feet takes you to the saddle between it and Mullach Mor. From there an easy ascent of some 300 feet leads to the top of Mullach Mor, at 1030 feet, the highest point on the island.

Looking back to Mullach Beg from Mullach Mor

Trig pillar atop Mullach Mor

The whole of the Firth of Clyde opens up from the top. This next view shows the Inner Light, which is now a retreat centre. If you are lucky (as I was) you will encounter the herd of Eriskay ponies that run wild on the island

Inner Light - and Eriskay Ponies

More ponies

Also to be seen are the wild Saanen goats that roam the island.

Wild goats

A Saanen goat

On arrival at the island the colorfully dressed warden told me to be careful descending the south side of Mullach Mor, as the heather hides deep crevasses in the stone. They had helpfully strung up some ropes to mark a safe route down the hill.

The safe way down

On the way down I had to stop to take a photo of the beautiful house where the Lama Yeshe Losal stays when he visits the island. I would love to see inside, but I gave it, and the lighthouse retreat centre, a wide berth as I made my way down the hill.

The Inner Light and the house of Lama Yeshe Losal

Next time we'll pay a visit to the heart of Holy Island, the cave of St Molaise.

The Judgement Stone

On Holy Island, in the Firth of Clyde, there lies a large, and very strange, carved stone. It is flat-topped, seven feet high, seven across, and lies just below the cave of St. Molaise on the western shore of the island. A ring-topped cross is carved on the side, along with steps that allow you to easily climb to the top. But what's really odd are what look like seats, carved around its top.

The Holy Island stone - two of the 'seats' visible

This strange stone has four names: Pulpit Rock, St Molaise's Table, the Saint's Chair, and the Judgement Stone. Each name implying a different purpose. Another interesting thing is that lying at its base is a stone font. About 100 years ago vandals threw the font onto the beach, but it has since been put back in place.

The font of the Judgement Stone

So what was this stone?  Was it St Molaise's pulpit rock?  Did he use it as a table to dine?  Did he sit there to enjoy the view?  Or did he stand on it as a judge, determining the fate of accused sinners sitting in the seats, or the suitability of those seeking the priesthood?  Or could it have been the base for a shrine or cross, and the 'seats' places to set offerings?  Unfortunately no one will ever know the purpose of this mysterious thing. If what's carved on the stone are seats, they're not comfortable ones. I could not stay seated without using my feet to prop me in place.

Whatever it was used for, the stone is part of a ritual landscape; nearby are St Molaise's cave and holy well. See this PSAS page for more on the relics of Holy Island.

Wildlife on Holy Isle

Aside from livestock, like cattle and sheep, there are other large animals you'll occasionally encounter while wandering on the Scottish Isles. I have come across wild goats on Islay, Mull, Cara and Jura, and horses while wandering on Muck and Eriskay. But there is only one island where I've encountered goats and horses at the same time, and that is Holy Island. You can read about the Eriskay ponies and the Saanen Goats that run free on Holy Island here, and below are some photos I took of them in 2002.

Saanen goat and kid meditating on the west coast

Saanen goat grazing above Pillar Rock lighthouse

Ponies grazing on the slopes above the Inner Light

Ponies grazing