Hermit's Cell - Iona

A kilometre west of the Iona abbey you'll find Cobhain Cuildich, the secluded hollow. In this quiet spot lies the foundation of what's known as The Hermit's Cell, which may have been a place of retreat for the Columban monastery. It is an oval arrangements of stones 15 feet wide and 20 long, that may have once been quite a substantial building.

There's no proof it was the monastery's hermitage, or that Columba was ever there. But the site is certainly one of the most secluded areas within a relativity close distance to the monastery. Because of it's possible connection to Columba the cell is one of the usual stops on an Iona pilgrimage. I visited it during a long walk around the island, which you can read about in book 1, chapter 16.   

For more on the Hermit's Cell see this page of the Columba Trail website, and this CANMORE page.

The Hermit's Cell - 1

The Hermit's Cell - 2

Laraichean - Iona

At the far south end of Iona, between the Port of the Coracle and Columba's Cairn Cul Ri Eirinn, you'll find the ancient settlement known as Laraichean. Many visitors make their way to the Port of the Coracle, but few carry on the extra 200 yards west to see Laraichean.

Laraichean (which means 'foundations') is well hidden in a natural hiddie-hole above a small beach. If you make your way to the site you'll find the remnants of a half-dozen or so beehive type structures. As you can tell from the photos, my visit was on a grey and misty day.

Laraichean

The ruins here may predate the time of Columba, and so its residents, if there were any at the time, may have been the first to greet him when he arrived. Or, as the CANMORE page on the site mentions, this could have been the first settlement established by Columba and his companions.

Cattle grazing at Laraichean

I wanted to see Laraichean after reading this description of it in Trenholme's The Story of Iona (1909):

These are declared to be by far the oldest buildings in the island. The spot is a beautiful recess, enclosed by high rocks all round, and open only toward the sea, where the inclination of the ground towards the water is remedied by an artificial terrace. The hamlet could be well defended with bows and arrows, but whether it was the home of Picts or Scots who lived before Columba, or of later monks or hermits, is unknown. 

To get to Laraichean I climbed the small ridge west of the Port of the Coracle. When you approach it this way you can appreciate that it is indeed sited in a 'beautiful recess'; a pretty little spot far from it all. But unfortunately I did not have the place to myself, for a large herd of cattle were contentedly grazing on the lush grass that was growing all over the site. One big old cow wanted to make friends, and aggressively followed me as I walked around. So after taking a few quick photos I headed up and over the rocks in search of Columba's Carn Cul ri Eirinn. (See the April 12, 2013 post.)

Laraichean

The Marble Quarry - Iona

In 1790, the Duke of Argyll thought it would be a profitable enterprise to quarry the green-veined Iona marble. But the cost of operating from such a remote location doomed the effort. In 1907 the quarry was reopened. It had a more successful run that time, staying in business for a dozen years. But since 1919 the only marble that’s left the quarry are small chunks carried away in the pockets of tourists, and pieces taken to produce items of local Celtic craft work. 

On my first visit to Iona, back in 1989, I tried to find the quarry. All I had with me at the time was the 1:50000 scale Landranger map 48. The quarry is not marked on that map, and I incorrectly thought it was about halfway down the east coast of the island. I searched, but was not able to find the quarry. 

A few years later I acquired the 1:25000 scale Pathfinder map of Iona (Pathfinder 341). Using that map, in combination with info from some old sketch maps of Iona, I was able to pinpoint the location of the quarry (NM 269 218), which is just a short distance north of the south tip of the island. Using those coordinates I was able to find the quarry in 2003. Here are a few photos from that visit. (Also see chapter 16 of book 1 for a description of a walk around Iona that includes the quarry.)

Busy Iona (but not always)

Iona can be a busy place. On a typical summer day there can be several hundred people wandering around the village and abbey. If you visit during that time of year the following photos show what to expect. The first is of a ferry full of day-trippers arriving on the island; the second shows the long queue on Fionnphort of people just off the buses waiting to board the next ferry. The best way to see Iona is to stay on the island and explore when the crowds are gone. The second photo also shows the MV Ullin of Staffa, one of several boats that take you out to visit nearby Staffa.

Ferry arriving on Iona

Queuing at Fionnphort

Cave View - 5

This cave view is from Uamh nan Calman, Pigeons' Cave. It is on the south east coat of Iona, a half kilometer north of the marble quarry. It opens out onto a small stone beach occupied by doves and shags. The second photo shows the entrance on the landward side. The cave was visited often by Henry Graham who wrote The Antiquities of Iona (1850). It's a book I'd love to own, but copies go for upwards of $250.

Next time we'll jump over to nearby Lunga to find a cave referred to in LR Higgins' A Tangle of Islands (one of the best island books) as "dark, mysterious, little known and unsuspected".

Sheela-na-gigs

Sheela-na-gigs are intriguing objects. All the more so because no one knows what they really are. I put together the following composite image of some of the possible Scottish Sheelas to use in the chapter on Iona (Book 1, chapter 16).  Not shown in the image are the Sheela in Kirkwall Cathedral (which stands high on a column near the memorial to John Rae), and the newly-noticed Sheela on the Abbey Church of Iona (meaning Iona has two Sheelas). A great resource for information on Sheelas is John Harding's Sheela-na-gig project.

The White Island

My wife and I visited the White Island of Lower Lough Erne this week. I tried to reach it 20 years ago, but the ferry from Castle Archdale was not running while we were there. But it was running this week, and for the paltry sum of 4 pounds each we were taken to the island.  

Mounted on the wall of the ruined church is a set of carved stones; the one on the far left a Shiela-na-gig (second photo). It was a great to finally see the stones up close, great that is, until one of the large fleet of rental cruisers motoring around the lough docked at the island and a swarm of German tourists stormed ashore. 

Teed off on Iona

This photo is looking north from Dun-I, the highest point of Iona. I have visited it several times to sit atop the trig-pillar and soak in the view. But the last time was unpleasant. I had to listen to a woman having a loud conversation on her mobile phone. I thought about grabbing it and throwing it into the nearby Well of Eternal Youth, but I didn't think St Columba would have approved. After 20 minutes I lost all hope she'd shut up so I left.

Looking north from atop Dun-I

A better memory of fellow visitors to Iona was this pebble cross someone made on the grassland above the Port of the Coracle in 1988.

Tee-Time on Iona

The wettest I ever got was during a walk around Iona. It rained most of the day, and my boots become waterlogged after crossing a morass near Loch Staonaig. But it was still a great day. No golfers were about, so as I crossed the links I took a break at the third hole to wring out my socks.

The hillock in the distance (left) is the site of the fort of Dun Bhuirg. To the right, not shown in the picture, is Dun-I, the summit of the island and our next stop.

Tee-Time on Iona