South South Rona - The South End

Spending a week on South Rona allows for many an opportunity for long walks to historic sites. One of the best is the walk to Eilean Garbh, a tidal islet at the south tip of the island. Leaving from Dry Harbour, you climb the twisting track to the top of the pass, and then start the descent to Rona Lodge. A half-mile before reaching the lodge you turn left to follow another twisty path to the south.

Two miles later you come to the ruins of Doire na Guaile. It was Rona's second largest settlement, and here you'll find about two dozen ruins.

Ruin in Doire na Guaile - 1

Ruin in Doire na Guaile - 2

Ruin in Doire na Guaile - 3

Old (and older) run in Doire na Guaile

Old rusting bed-stand - Doire na Guaile

The ruins of Doire are extensive, and stand on both sides of the track. After exploring the houses I carried on to the south end of the track. A short walk down the hillside takes you to the chapel of An Teampull. It is a beautiful ruin, and its stone wall encloses an old burial ground.

The Chapel

Inside the chapel - 1

Inside the chapel - 2

Beautiful chi-rho-cross on the gate to the burial ground

From An Teampull I followed the coast east to the tidal crossing to Eilean Garbh. The tide was out, and so I was able to cross to the base of the island. But I could not get up onto the top of the island because the mini-cliff that would have to be climbed proved too challenging. I could see a muddy, near vertical way up that was covered in deer tracks. But I'm not a deer, and being alone I decided not to risk the climb. I'd been told there might be some ruins on the island, but they would have to wait for another time.

West side of the crossing to Eilean Garbh

East side of the crossing to Eilean Garbh

On the exposed crossing

I started the trip back to Dry Harbour by returning to the hillside above An Teampull, where I sat for a while to enjoy one of my favourite places on Rona, with its amazing view of the chapel, Eilean Tighe, and Kyles Rona.

An Teampull

MV Ocean Unity and a Surprise Visit to South Rona - 1995

A while back I posted on the various boats that have taken me on memorable island visits. (Click on the 'boats' link on the list of labels). I just came across some photos of another boat I've been on; one that took me on my first 'community' boat trip: MV Ocean Unity.

MV Ocean Unity - 1995

That trip happened during a visit to Raasay in 1995. My wife and I were the only ones staying at the Isle of Raasay Hotel and, as it turned out, a family reunion was happening on nearby South Rona. The family of Donald and Fiona Macalman, the Rona island managers at the time, had arranged for a boat to take them to Rona. The staff and owners of the hotel also wanted to go, and instead of abandoning their only guests in an empty hotel, they invited my wife and I to come along.

And so a caravan of six cars drove from the Isle of Raasay Hotel up to Arnish. We hiked down to the shore, where we were taken out to MV Ocean Unity, a 9 metre, steel hulled fishing boat, with a heavy-duty crane at its stern. On the way to Rona we stopped to fling fistfuls of fragrant fish feed (say that 10 times in a row) into a fish pen; it was tiring work, work that automatic feeders do these days. Once we reached Rona we were taken ashore in a large metal boat, appropriately named 'Tin Can'.

Below are a few grainy photos from that day in 1995. It was an amazing experience. For the full story, and how it led to a return visit nine years later, see chapter 5 of book 2. As of 2013 Ocean Unity was working mussel farms in the Western Isles.

Afloat off Arnish - my wife standing behind the wheelhouse

'Tin Can' departs from Ocean Unity in Big Harbour- 'Tin Can' was the Rona landing boat

Fiona and Donald Macalman at Rona Lodge

Return to Arnish

South Rona is Popular

In looking at my blog statistics I've noticed that posts on South Rona have seen the most visitors - and not by a little, but by a factor of 10. That is understandable, as Rona is an amazing place. Over the past 20 years I've had the privilege of visiting Rona five times, and two of those visits were week-long stays. For more on Rona see this link about staying on the island, and this link to read Bill Cowie's Rona blog.

Below are a few more photos from South Rona.

Fiona and Donald Macalman (the island managers in 1995) at Rona Lodge

Donald Macalman sees us off from the landing in Big Harbour - this was in 1995, before the pontoon dock was built

View towards Big Harbour from atop Meall Acairseid

My wife inside Church Cave

Schoolhouse ruin - Dry Harbour

Looking north from the hills above Loch Braig

Village ruins above Dry Harbour - you will see a house just about everywhere you look

Cattle grazing in the early morning

Rainbow over Dry Harbour seen from Escape Cottage

An Teampull - Chapel at the south end of Rona

A visitor admires the lush grass around Escape Cottage (we quickly learned not to leave the gate open)

Rona light seen from atop Commando Hill 
That's my name for it (due to the Bren gun shell casings that litter the summit)

The view from Escape Cottage

Bill Cowie (Rona island manager) waves goodbye to us at the end of a week long stay (2007)

Some South Rona Panoramas

It is always rewarding, while searching for a specific photo, to come across some that I'd forgotten about. That happened while looking for a picture I'd taken of Garbh Eilean, a tidal islet off the south tip of Rona. In doing so I came across some panoramas I'd made (stitched photos) of South Rona. The first is of the keeper's house at Rona Light. The second and third are views of Big Harbour seen from the track to Doire na Guaile. The fourth is of 'Ob an Dreallaire' (the bay of the loiterer), which lies at the north end of Rona. It is a beautiful and rarely visited spot (I did loiter for a while).

Keeper's House - Rona Light

Big Harbour seen from the track to Doire na Guaile (2 stitched photos)

Big Harbour seen from the track to Doire na Guaile (3 stitched photos)

Ob an Dreallaire (Bay of the Loiterer)

Rona Lodge - Before and After

Here are two views of Rona Lodge (South Rona). The first is from a day trip my wife and I made in 1995, the second is from 2004. As you can see, a lot of improvements had been made since Bill Cowie became island manager in 2002. My wife and I returned to the island to stay for a week in 2004, and again for a week in 2007. We dearly want to go back.

Cave View - 7

Our next cave view is of my favourite island cave. It lies high up on the central east coast of South Rona. It is Uamh an Fhuamhair, the cave of giants; more commonly called Church Cave. With its rows of stone seats (second photo) it is still occasionally used to hold church services.