Ring of Bright Water & Maxwell's Ghost

Although I did not know it at the time, my first exposure to Gaelic, the Hebrides, and the west of Scotland happened when I was 12 years old. That was in 1969, when my mother took me to a theater in downtown Seattle to see the movie Ring of Bright Water. Some scenes were filmed at Ellenabeich (Seil) and in Oban. And there are views to several islands in the Firth of Lorne, including Scarba and the Garvellachs. The story of the otter, and the scenery, made quite an impression on me.

It wasn't until 1991 that I actually read the book, which is very different from the movie, and much more interesting. After reading Ring of Bright Water (published in 1960), I went on to read the other two parts of the Bright Water trilogy: The Rocks Remain (1963), and Raven Seek Thy Brother (1969).

After reading the trilogy I came across a book about Maxwell called The White Island (1972), by John Lister-Kaye, who was involved in Maxwell's plans to construct a zoo on Eilean Bhan; the White Island that now lies under the Skye bridge. It has a sad ending as the author describes how, after Maxwell died, the zoo-in-progress had to be dismantled, and that they were worried about finding a home for Teko, the last of the famous otters. But they did not need to find him a home, because Teko died of a heart attack not too long after Gavin Maxwell died of Cancer.

Another excellent book that describes much of the back story of Maxwell's life at Sandaig and Eilean Bhan is Richard Frere's Maxwell's Ghost (1976).

It is easy to visit Eilean Bhan these days, and tours are offered by the Bright Water Visitors Centre. On the island you'll find a memorial stone that marks where Teko is buried. Teko and Gavin Maxwell both died in 1969, the year I first saw Ring of Bright Water.

Stone on Eilean Bhan - TEKO 1959 - 69

Eilean Bhan - 3

My guide, Mike, unlocked the outer door and allowed me to walk around the balcony of the lighthouse. Unfortunately the looming Skye Bridge hogged the view.

View from the balcony

Looking towards the old Keeper's House from the balcony of the light

After climbing back down the tower Mike led me over to the hide, well stocked with binos and birding books. It would be a wonderful place to spend a few hours with its view over the north of the island looking towards Raasay.

Inside the hide

Before leaving the island I had to sit on the trig pillar that marks its highest point. I'd seen the pillar on every crossing of the bridge over the past 18 years, so it was great fun to finally sit on it.

Atop Eilean Bhan

View from the Trig Pillar

Eilean Bhan - 2

The 70-foot tall Eilean Bhan lighthouse was built in 1857, automated in 1960, and made redundant when the Skye Bridge opened in 1995. What with all the Health & Safety regulations these days it was a surprise to me that I would be allowed to climb to the top.

After walking across the recently painted five-span plate-iron footbridge to reach the tower my guide, Mike, unlocked the door. We then climbed a narrow circular staircase followed by a series of steep ladders to reach the lantern room.

After reaching the lantern room Mike surprised me by unlocking the door to the balcony. Next time we'll step through that door and take a look around.

Eilean Bhan - 1

The island is Eilean Bhan - The White Island - which now serves as a footing for the Skye Bridge. When the bridge first opened a security camera was placed to monitor the access point to the island. This pesky camera discouraged me for several years from jumping the wall and exploring the island.

Eilean Bhan became famous as the residence of Gavin Maxwell after his home at Sandaig burned down. I was made aware of the history of this little island by reading John Lister-Kaye's book The White Island. And the photo in the last post was of the memorial to Teko made by John Lister-Kaye. Teko, the last of the Ring of Bright Otters, died in 1969.

These days the camera is gone, and the island is easily accessible via guided tours offered by the Bright Water Centre in Kyleakin. Last month I phoned them up and signed on to one of their tours. Driving onto the Skye Bridge I parked in a small parking area recently made by the gate that gives access to the island. There I was met by Mike, who told me I was the only one who'd wanted a tour that day. Our first stop was the memorial to Teko, and then Mike showed me around the old Keeper's house that Maxwell had renovated.

Our next stop was the Lighthouse. I have been to many a Scottish light, but this was the first one that I have ever been allowed to climb. Next time we'll ascend a steep sets of stairs and ladders to reach the top of the light.