Blackmill Bay - Luing

Blackmill Bay, on the southwest corner of Luing, is a shadow of its former self. It was once a busy port, but all you will find there today are the crumbling remains of its old pier and ticket office, and a quiet B&B. (The ticket office is on the buildings at risk website.) It would be interesting to have seen Blackmill in its heyday, when livestock, slate, passengers, and goods passed through here on the way to (or from) Oban or Glasgow. 

Ticket office - Blackmill Bay

Decades ago Blackmill, and nearby Cullipool, were the place to go to seek out a fisherman to take you to Scarba, Lunga, and the Garvellachs. As you can see in the photos, my visit to Blackmill last May was on a wet, grey, and windy day. The place felt, and looked, desolate.

Just to the north of the old rotting pier they've constructed a modern stone breakwater. And behind it a solitary boat bobbed on the swells. Maybe the owner would take you to Scarba or Lunga if you ask.

  

Jetty at Blackmill Bay

You can see a photo of the pier in its better days on this CANMORE page, and an old photo of the ticket office on this CANMORE page. There is a B&B at Blackmill called The Gorsten that looked like a great place to stay if you wanted a quiet place to get away from it all on a Scottish island.

Blackmill Bay

RIP on Luing - Now and Then

I visited Luing last month. It was only my second time there, my first visit some 19 years ago. When I was on the island way back then I visited the grave of Alexander Campbell. Campbell's grave is one of the iconic spots in the Hebrides; and his self-written epitaph, which cover three large stones, have been described by countless authors (including myself - see book 1, chapter 8).

Alexander Campbell's Grave - 1997

I won't include all of the text of Campbell's tombstones, as they make for dreary reading. Here is one example:

I protest that none be buried after me in this grave which I have dug for myself…having adhered till death to the whole work of the second reformation in Scotland…and died in full assurance of the heavenly inheritance.

In Patrick Gillies Netherlorn, Argyllshire, and its Neighborhood (1909), there is a detailed history of Campbell’s exploits as a seceder from the established church, and as a leader of the Covenanters of Lorn. To quote Gillies:

    

Their ruling principle was that they alone professed the true religion, and that all not of their communion were doomed to perdition…. Persecution, notwithstanding the fact that they themselves were fighting for freedom, made them the most intolerant of sects. They became more and more exclusive; whatever position was taken up there were always some who went a step further, and denounced, excommunicated, and doomed the people they left behind. Papacy and prelacy they abhorred, but their keenest resentment was against those of their own body who preached religious toleration.

Campbell produced a lengthy dissertation: The Dying Testimony of Alexander Campbell, in which he tells his life’s story. It includes the following denunciations (in which I don’t believe he’s left anyone out):

    

I, as a dying man, leave my testimony against Quakers, Tabernacle folk, Haldians, Independents, Anabaptists, Antiburghers, Burghers, Chappels of Ease, Relief, Roman Catholics, Socenians, Prelacy, Armenians, Deists, Atheists, Universalists, New Jerusalemites, Unitarians, Methodists, Bareans, Glassites, and all sectarians.

Campbell's grave is a sad sight these days. As you can see in the next photo, in the 19 years since I last saw it the main tablet-stone has cracked in two and fallen away from the headstone. In addition, a large plant has grown that obscures most of the grave. I have mixed feelings about this. One would think that a resident of nearby Toberonochy would take the time to do some pruning every now and then to preserve this well known bit of Luing history. But, then again, maybe this monument to intolerance deserves to fall to pieces and be forgotten.

Alexander Campbell's Grave - 2016

A Visit to Eileach an Naoimh

My first visit to Eileach an Naoimh of the Garvellach Isles was in 1997 (see book 1, chapter 8). The boatman who took me was Lachie MacLachlan, who lived in Cullipool on the island of Luing. The MacLachlans of Cullipool had been taking visitors to the Garvellachs for years and, as recounted in chapter 6 of her Wanderings in the Western Highlands and Islands (1921), it was an earlier Lachie MacLachlan of Cullipool who took MEM Donaldson to the Garvellachs.

I had made arrangements with Lachie (who has since passed way) to go to the island on a Sunday. I was surprised he agreed to this, as Luing is a fairly sabbatarian place. My wife and I were staying on the nearby isle of Seil, and on the Sunday morning she dropped me off at the ferry pier in Cuan. Since it was a Sunday, the car ferry to Luing was not running. But the little passenger ferry MV Oronsay was operating, and it took just a few minutes to cross the 900 foot wide Cuan Sound.

MV Oronsay - the foot-ferry to Luing in 1997

From the pier on Luing I was expecting to have to make a two mile walk to Cullipool. But I had no sooner started walking when I was offered a lift. The man who gave me the ride was Joe Hughes. He had just seen me walk by his house next to the pier, and wanted to be friendly and talk. As he drove me over to Cullipool he offered up several suggestions on things to see on Luing.

Joe Hughs and wife - Luing

Joe had no sooner dropped me in Cullipool when I saw Lachie climbing out of his boat, which was tied up to a rusty old fishing boat.

Lachie MacLachlan getting out of his boat in Cullipool

We were soon on our way to Aileach at full speed. But he did take time to slow down and give me a good look at Belnahua with its abandoned slate works, tiny Fladda with it lighthouse, and the once fortified island of Dun Connel. We then motored down the east side of Aileach, passing as we did a natural arch known as An Clarsach (the harp).

An Clarsach - the harp

Lachie then dropped me on slabs of rock east of the monastic site on Aileach. The island is best known for these ruins, which include two giant beehive cells that date to the sixth century.

The Beehives

Standing in front of the beehives is a 12-foot stone pillar with a natural overhang. It is called St Columba's Pulpit, and someone could preach here under rainy skies and stay dry.

Beehive cells and Columba's Pulpit

Columba's Pulpit

From the beehives it is a short walk to the site of the monastery. The most intact structure is a beautiful chapel (11th century), which you can see to the left in the next photo. The large structure to the right is a hodge-podge of altered buildings that were used as a residence when the island was last occupied in the 19th century.

Another relic of ancient times, one that many visitors miss seeing, is St Columba's Well; a little stone lined pool that lies above a narrow landing place known as Am Port, which had been the main gateway to the monastery.

Columba's Well

In my opinion the most evocative spot on the island is Cladh Eithne. It is a small circular burial ground with one of the few remaining cross-stones on the island. The cross is said to mark the grave of Eithne, St Columba's mother.

Cladh Eithne

Another interesting site is an underground chamber often referred to as 'the prison'; where it is said the prisoner was trapped by placing their arm under a wedge of rock. I did not see any such rock, but the cell had a beautiful little niche with a ledge that could be used as an altar. The cell may have been a solitary retreat for the monks; a cell of the penitential type, as opposed to the penitentiary type. During my visit in 1997 a prayer group was inside, and after they left I crawled in to find several lit candles sitting on the ledge.

Entrance to the cell

In the cell

To give them some privacy, while the prayer group was in the underground cell I wandered down to the south end of the island and climbed up to what may have been the shortest lighthouse in the world (established 1904). However the classic little lighthouse I saw then (1997) has since been replaced by a boring aluminum-clad tower, which you can see here.

Mini lighthouse at the south end (1997)

The world's shortest lighthouse?

From the light I climbed the spine of the island to Dun Bhreanain, the highest point on the island. From here you can see the other, and less visited, Garvellach islands of A' Cuili and Garbh Eileach. Those islands were so close, but so far, as it would take me five years to set foot on Garbh Eileach, and another two years to get to A' Cuili. Beautiful little islands all, but they don't have the history of Eileach an Naoimh.

Looking north from the top of the island

A' Chuli and Garbh Eileach

When the time came to go I heard Lachie speeding towards the landing spot. I jumped aboard, he throttled up, and we started motoring back to Luing at full speed. That didn't sit too well with the folks scuba-diving from a nearby sailboat, who bade us farewell with middle-finger salutes. Aside from that it had been an amazing day afoot. It was the first time I'd chartered a boat for a solo trip to an island - something I'd soon become addicted to - and it was not over yet. I still had time for a little Luing wandering (see postscript to chapter 8 of book 1). 

Eileach an Naoimh is an amazing place. One of the most accessible sites of its kind. After my visit in 1997 I returned two more times; reaching the islands from Crinan in 2002 and 2004 with Mike Murray, who owned the catamaran Gemini at the time. There are no trips from Cullipool these days (that I know of), but you can get a day trip with Seafari, operating out of Easdale. For more info on Aileach see this CANMORE page.

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