Showing posts with label Book 2 Chapter 18. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Book 2 Chapter 18. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 25, 2020

What is an IKEA Lighthouse?

So, what exactly is an IKEA lighthouse?

A lighthouse enthusiast was on my 2019 guided cruise last July. As we were motoring past the Garvellach Isles he mentioned we were passing an IKEA lighthouse, and I had to ask what he meant. It turns out the term refers to the modern pre-fab beacons the Northern Lighthouse Board puts up when an old minor light needs to be replaced. Over the years I'd noticed several of these utilitarian towers had replaced the more traditional beacons seen in years past. 

The IKEA tower on the Garvellachs replaced a light I'd first seen in 1997, that I believe was built in 1904. It was a more elegant structure than the tower that replaced it, and even more interesting because you could climb up onto to its small balcony.



The beacon that replaced it in 2003, while functional, does not allow for the wandering island bagger to climb to its top.  I discovered this on a visit in 2016. Although you can climb the rocks to the base of the tower, it is not possible to get up on top.


Another example of this modernization is the beacon at Aird Laimisiader, two miles west of Carloway in Lewis. On a hike there over 20 years ago, as described in Chapter 18 of Book 2, I walked to the old beacon at the tip of the headland, which dated to 1892.


Over a decade passed before I walked that way again, when I discovered the old beacon had been replaced by one of the IKEA variety.


As the years pass these IKEA towers might become as iconic as those they replace. For we will probably see even more utilitarian structures in these remote spots: tiny Wi-Fi beacons pinging out their locations to warn self-piloted boats that danger lurks.

Friday, January 10, 2020

Aird Laimisiadair

I just saw the Call the Midwife episode that was filmed on Lewis.  The scenes filmed at the Gearranan blackhouse village reminded me of one of the best short walk on Lewis, one that most tourists never make: the clifftop walk around the Aird Laimishader headland. 

I described the one-way hike to Laimishader from Gearrannan in the June 26, 2015 post, which you can read here. That is the best way to see the area, but it does involve a two-mile road walk back to Gearrannan. The easiest way to see it is the out-and-back hike from Borghaston; a beautiful three-mile hike to the headland and back described in Chapter 18 of Book 2.

What follows are photos taken during several visits to Laimishader, and from a sail past it; photos that span a period of 22 years, from 1997 to 2019.

Route of the walk from Gearrannan
Route of walk from Borghaston described in Book 2, Chapter 18

The original headland beacon at Aird Laimishader in 1997

The headland beacon in 2015 (now an IKEA tower)



Inland from the headland is Loch na- h-Airde. Anyone familiar with the prologue of Alasdair Alpin MacGregor's The Haunted Isles knows of the stepping stones that cross the stream here.

Loch na h-Airde - stepping stones at lower right

Stepping Stones - 1997

Looking out to the isles of Loch Rog

Old settlement site at Laimisiadar

Laimisiadar - once a monastery
St Ciaran's Well at Laimisiadar
A last look back at the headland