Breacan's Cave

The best island hikes are ones with historic destinations. One of my favorites was around the north of Jura, past a viewpoint of the Corryvreckan whirlpool, and on a wee bit farther to Uamh Bhreacain, Breacan's Cave.

Breacan's Cave

There are several other 'Breacan' place names at the north of Jura. A hill that rises above the cave is Aird Bhreacain (the heights of Breacan), and just offshore swirls the whirlpool of Coire Bhreacain. One of the Gaelic meanings of 'breac' is speckled. So it's possible the place names come from the speckled waters of the whirlpool. A traditional derivation is from Prince Brekan, who is said to have drowned when his fleet was caught in the whirlpool, and was buried in the cave. In its day it was a well defended cave, and remnants of a protective wall still stand.

The cave is 100 feet deep, and it was written in 1700 that there was a tomb and altar in the cave. It was also reported, in the 1800s, that a stone coffin was dug out of the cave, but all it contained was dust. On my first visit to the cave I was hoping to see what was left of the tomb. Once walking 50 feet past the outer wall I came to a giant slab lying on the ground.

The slab looked like it could have covered a grave, or been part of an altar. But a search of the cave floor showed no sign of a dug-out tomb. What was evident is that the cave is a regular shelter for the feral goats that roam the island, as the cave's floor was covered with a thick carpet of goat-pooh.

It was dark and dreary, so I didn't linger long in the pooh-covered cave. Once back outside I made a bad decision to take a shortcut across the island to make a more direct return to the car, which was parked at road's end on the other side of the island. That shortcut crosses the notch in the ridge you can see in the next photo taken from near the mouth of the cave.

It was a bad decision because it was stalking season, and I'd not inquired about any hunting activity. But I was lucky, and made it across without interfering with anyone. If you ever hike in deer country in season, always ask around to see if a hunt is on. If you ask, you may be surprised what you're told. The last time I asked about access, when I wanted to cross the Morsgail estate on Lewis, the keeper was happy to hear from me. He told me no worries, all his clients were fishing, not deer stalking. He also gave some tips on the area, and let me know there were people staying at a remote bothy that would welcome a visitor (see the Ardveg Walk post). So good things can come to those who ask.

Looking back to the headland of Breacan's Cave (on left) from the shortcut across the island

Although my walk in 1999 was inspired by wanting to see the cave, it led to an even better thing: discovering the beautiful, remote bay nearby. And so, six years later, I returned to camp there for a few days. Island hikes often lead to discovering something new, something that makes you want to return again and again. So take a hike on Jura, Islay, or any island. I'm sure you'll come across something surprising, something wonderful. Something that will bring you back, again and again.

Campsite near Breacan's Cave

South Rona Revisited

If the sea cooperates, in the coming weeks I hope to set foot again on South Rona. It's an island full of history; interesting (and hard) terrain, and an on-going evolution, that takes a long time to get to know. I've been fortunate to have spent two week-long stays on the island, along with several day-trips. I've been wanting to return to see more, and I hope to do just that during our upcoming 10-day cruise on May 21. (There are still a few berths available - see this link.) Below are a some views of South Rona's Acairseid Thioram, Dry Harbour - named that because it drys out at low tide. 

Dry Harbour seen from the north

In its day Dry Harbour was the main settlement on Rona, and in the glen above the harbour lie the ruins of about 40 structures; including a couple dozen homes last occupied in the 1920s. Standing just above the harbour is the substantial ruin of the school, which closed in 1930. Next to the school is the mission hall that dates to the 1870s, which was renovated into self-catering apartments in 2003.

School and Mission Hall seen from the harbour

Cattle munching at low tide in dry harbour

The best viewpoint on Rona is the summit of Meall Acairseid, which rises above Dry Harbor. When I was staying on the island I went there most every day to sit for a while. Off to the south Dun Caan could be seen topping the island of Raasay, and beyond it the Skye Cuillins. And to the north there's an amazing view over open sea all the way to Lewis. If conditions permit, I hope to see that view again in a few weeks. If you'd like the chance to see it too, consider joining our cruise.

Looking down to Dry Harbour from Meal Acairseid

Cave View - 3

This time we're inside Breackan's Cave on Jura looking out to Scarba and the Corryvreakan Whirlpool. Martin Martin wrote this of Corryvreckan and the cave: This gulf hath its name from Brekan, said to be son to the King of Denmark, who was drowned here, cast ashore in the north of Jura, and buried in a cave, as appears from the stone, tomb, and altar there. I found no tomb or altar inside the cave, but there was a large rectangular slab of stone that may have once marked a grave.

Next time we'll head over to Staffa to peer out of Fingal's Cave. 

Jura Journey - Day 7

We'll end this week-long visit to Jura with another long walk from the end of the road. On this one we'll go around the north tip of the island to see Breakan's Cave and Corryvreakan. 

Corryvreckan - 7 long miles

Along the way you'll pass Knockinsaul (Barnhill) where George Orwell stayed.

Barnhill

From there a steady traverse of the north end leads to a view of Scarba and Corryvreakan. When I did this walk the tides were not good to see the whirlpool at its best. But I would return two more times over the next decade to see it in action (book 1, chapters 6 & 7).

A quiet Corryvreakan

Continuing around the coast will take you to Bagh Gleann nam Muc (Pig Glen Bay) and Breakan's Cave. At one time there was a tomb in the fortified cave, but the only sign of it now is a large stone slab. Also inside is about 20 tons of Goat droppings.

Breakan's Cave

Below is a view of Bagh Gleann nam Muc from above the cave. I would return in a few years to camp on the beach here (book 1, chapter 7).

Bagh Gleann nam Muc

After a climb up Gleann Beag you are rewarded with this view before starting the long walk back to the car. By the way - always check on deer-stalking activity before you wander through this area.

Looking down on Bagh Gleann nam Muc

This ends our week-long sojourn through Jura. I had to leave a lot out. We didn't climb any of the Paps, and that's because I have yet to ascend them. Neither have I seen the great raised beaches on the north shore. So I need to go back to Jura to do that. The following photo of a raised beach was supplied by Christina Macaulay, who visited the area during a cruise aboard Elizabeth G.

Raised Beach