Down from the Top - Eriskay 5

From Beinn Stac we'll descend north to visit Coilleag a' Phrionnsa, the Prince's Strand. On the way down we pass above the terminal for the ferry that plies the waters between Eriskay and Barra.

Ferry Terminal - Eriskay

The Prince's Strand (next photo) lies north of the terminal. The cairn is a memorial to Prince Charlie's first Scottish landfall (islandfall?) on July 23,1745. As you may have noticed, the misty and grey weather in this photo is in stark contrast to the blue skies and sun of the previous ones. This photo is from 2005, the one above was from 2012, one of the driest island-summers in years. That made for easy hiking in places where I was expecting to face soggy bogs.

Coilleag a' Phrionnsa

Memorial to the Prince's landing

Atop Eriskay 4

After descending Beinn Sgiathan we have to walk around the head of the harbour Acairsaid Mhor before starting the climb to the top of Ben Stac, the highest terrain on the southern half of Eriskay.

Acairsaid Mhor

From the harbour it's a short climb to the top of Beinn Stac. The next photo shows the cairn at its summit. In the distance is Barra and its highest point Heabhal. 

Looking to Barra from Beinn Stac

To the south of Beinn Stac lie Na Stacan Dubha, the dark stacks, usually called The Stack Islands. In the next photo the small building you can see atop one of them is Caisteal an Reubadair. This is the Reiver's, or Pirate's Castle. I have also seen it translated as the Weaver's Castle, but that's a corruption of the Gaelic. What kind of weaver would have a castle? 

Otta Swire begins her book The Outer Hebrides and their Legends with the story of how the tower was once home to a nine-headed giant. I won't recount the whole story, so you will need to read it to find out how eight of his heads became the islands of Bernera, Eriskay, Mingulay, Vallay, Grimsay, Taransay, Pabbay and Killegray. Another part of his anatomy became the Butt of Lewis. And no, it's not what you think, it was his ninth head.

Stac Islands and Caisteal an Reubadair

Atop Eriskay 3

A great way to descend Beinn Sciathan is to head due east down to Loch Dubhat. Along the way you can get a closer look at Calbhaigh island. I wonder if there is any whisky left to be found in those sands.

As you approach Loch Dubhat with its two small islands, Canna and Rum can be seen on the horizon. The little islet in the sea to the left is Thairteamul. 

From the loch you can either turn north and head to the road at Bun a' Mhuillinn, or turn south to circle around the flank of Beinn Sciathan. Let's do the latter, and make our way down to the harbour of Acairsaid Mhor. When I walked this way I encountered Eriskay ponies grazing on the short grass.

Atop Eriskay 2

This view indicator is mounted on the trig-pillar atop Beinn Scriathan, the highest point of Eriskay. The islet in the distance connected to Eriskay by a sandbar is Calbhaigh, It was near there that the SS Politician ran aground in 1941 with a full load of whisky.

View indicator on Beinn Sgiathan - 2012

A few weeks before the above photo was taken another view indicator made the news when someone stole the one on Colonsay's Beinn a' Gudairean. The heavy bronze marker had been there since the 1930s. The photo below was taken in 1993, and I'm not sure who the young fellow is, but he's sitting on the now-missing indicator. (I think he feels bad about sitting on it now.)

View indicator on Colonsay's Beinn a' Gudairean - 1993

Atop Eriskay 1

In the next few posts I want to share some of the views that await all who wander the hills of Eriskay. These first two are looking north from the slopes of Beinn Scriathan  To the lower right is the small bay of Haunn where the ferry once landed; the Politician Bar stands near the shore to the left of the red-roofed shop; and St Michael's Church can be seen on its knoll above the near end of the causeway.

Vallay Mad Cow

While island going you'll often encounter docile Highland Cattle, and the occasional angry bull. This fellow was snoozing inside an old burial enclosure on Vallay. I wanted to see inside, so I had to shoo him away. He wasn't too happy about being disturbed. But he did get the last laugh. He left me a big present inside the ruin.

Jura Journey - Day 7

We'll end this week-long visit to Jura with another long walk from the end of the road. On this one we'll go around the north tip of the island to see Breakan's Cave and Corryvreakan. 

Corryvreckan - 7 long miles

Along the way you'll pass Knockinsaul (Barnhill) where George Orwell stayed.

Barnhill

From there a steady traverse of the north end leads to a view of Scarba and Corryvreakan. When I did this walk the tides were not good to see the whirlpool at its best. But I would return two more times over the next decade to see it in action (book 1, chapters 6 & 7).

A quiet Corryvreakan

Continuing around the coast will take you to Bagh Gleann nam Muc (Pig Glen Bay) and Breakan's Cave. At one time there was a tomb in the fortified cave, but the only sign of it now is a large stone slab. Also inside is about 20 tons of Goat droppings.

Breakan's Cave

Below is a view of Bagh Gleann nam Muc from above the cave. I would return in a few years to camp on the beach here (book 1, chapter 7).

Bagh Gleann nam Muc

After a climb up Gleann Beag you are rewarded with this view before starting the long walk back to the car. By the way - always check on deer-stalking activity before you wander through this area.

Looking down on Bagh Gleann nam Muc

This ends our week-long sojourn through Jura. I had to leave a lot out. We didn't climb any of the Paps, and that's because I have yet to ascend them. Neither have I seen the great raised beaches on the north shore. So I need to go back to Jura to do that. The following photo of a raised beach was supplied by Christina Macaulay, who visited the area during a cruise aboard Elizabeth G.

Raised Beach