The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 8

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 8 - Inchkenneth, Gometra, Ulva

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Friday, June 8 - Islands 11, 12 & 13 - Inchkenneth, Gometra, Ulva

Friday morning we went ashore on Inchkenneth, where we were quickly greeted by the caretakers, who had just dashed over from Mull when they saw we were going to land. They were friendly enough, but very quick to direct us along a path to the church that kept us well clear of the mansion house. The house has quite a history; once being home to Harold Boulton, known for writing the lyrics to The Skye Boat Song; and then to the Mitfords. (It is unlikely, but there is a rumor Hitler visited them here.)

Inchkenneth House in the 1920s - from Thomas Hannan's Iona and Some Satellites (1928)

It was a short walk to the site of St Kenneth's monastery. Nothing is left of the original monastery, but a 13th church stands on the site. Inside it there is an amazing collection of medieval tombstones that date from the 14th to the 16th century.  

Just above the church ruin stands the Inchkenneth cross, which dates to around the year 1500.

After seeing the chapel we made a circuit of the island, climbing to its highest point, and then heading north to a sheltered stone seat the owners call Poet's Corner; not that any poets are buried here, it is just a beautiful spot that should inspire poetry. I started to compose something, but then duty called. It was time to leave the island, and I so I had to set my epic work aside. This is as far as I got:

There once was a dentist from Inchkenneth,

Who longed to play tennis in Venice...

Liz, Mike and Debbie at Poet's Corner

Dave, Jane and Hazel at Poet's Corner

From Inchkenneth we made the short crossing to Gometra Harbour - one of my favorite anchorages. Just as we were approaching the harbour a pod of bottlenose dolphins came to play, bow-riding with us until we had to slow down at the harbour entrance – it was great fun (for us, too).

The clearance village in the center of Gometra was visited; a beautiful sheltered spot a half mile up in the hills above the anchorage.

From the village ruins I decided to lead the group directly back down to the shore, instead of backtracking the way we'd come. That was a mistake; seemingly endless tall grass and bracken bashing followed by a fence climb. When we did reach the road we realized someone was missing. Uh...Oh... As a guide, your Prime Directive is to not lose a guest (it does not look good on your CV). Even worse, my yearly performance review would not go well. 

And so, as the group headed off along the Gometra road to visit Ulva, I retraced our route back up the hill in search of the missing Liz.  

Where the Gometra road reaches Ulva

Old causeway crossing to Ulva

Gometra Bridge - no toll

Looking north from the Ulva side of the crossing

I did eventually find Liz. What with all the tall grass, and rolling hills, she had not seen where we 'd went, and had returned along our route in. When I found her she had retraced her steps and joined Mike, who had decided not to visit the village. Knowing that the rest of the group was on an easy road walk to Ulva, I decided to walk with Liz and Mike to Acairseid Mhor, an sheltered anchorage at the northwest corner of Gometra.

It was a long-ish walk, several ups and downs across two miles, that passed by Gometra village. At the west end of the village stood Gometra House. We could not get close to it, as a signed detour path intentionally took us well away from the house.

Gometra House

A bit past Gometra House we came across a sheep with a horn stuck in the bars of a steel gate. It panicked as we approached, but could not get itself unstuck from the gate. We gave a quick push on the tip of the horn (from the other side of the gate) to set it free. This was deja vu all over again, as on last year's trip we'd freed a sheep stuck in a bog on Pabbay Mor.

After reaching road's end at Acairsaid Mor, a very sheltered anchorage, but far too shallow for Hjalmar Bjorge, we returned to Gometra Harbour. 

Mike and Liz on the Gometra road

Back near the landing we took a look at Jane Ann's Bothy. No one was currently in residence, and it looked like a quiet place to stay (see this link). For more info on Gometra see their island website.

Jane Ann's Bothy

Once back aboard Hjalmar Bjorge we discovered a treat was in store for the evening meal. Mark had been diving for scallops, which made an excellent starter. Then a calm, uneventful night, was spent at anchor. Even though it was an uneventful, there was excitement in the air. In the morning we'd be setting foot on Puffin Island (AKA Lunga).

The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 7

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 7 - Erraid and Eorsa

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Thursday, June 7 – Islands 9 & 10 - Erraid and Eorsa

Thursday morning saw us storming the beach at Balfour Bay on the south side of Erraid. The island is best known for Robert Louis Stevenson’s use of it in the novel Kidnapped, and it also makes an appearance in Treasure Island; for if you look at the map in the book, you will see that the island has a striking resemblance to Erraid. In his Memories of an Islet, written in 1887, Stevenson had this to say about Erraid:

I put a whole family there, in one of my tales; and later on, threw upon its shores, and condemned to several days of rain and shellfish on its tumbled boulders, the hero of another. The ink is not yet faded; the sound of the sentences is still in my mind’s ear; and I am under a spell to write of that island again.

Balfour Bay, where we stepped ashore, is named for David Balfour, the hero of Kidnapped, who washed ashore here after the ship Covenant went aground on the nearby Torran Rocks.

From the beach we made the climb to the top of the island, where we took turns sitting on the Wishing Stone. The stone is difficult to get onto, as it is surrounded by a moat. I have visited Erraid in the past and, a bit leery of falling into the moat, I’d never tried jumping on it to make a wish. This time, with some helping hands, I got onto the stone. But the wish I made did not come true. (As I was sliding off the stone I fell into the moat.)

A 15 minute hike then took us over to the observatory; built to monitor the Dubh Artach lighthouse, which sits in the sea 15 miles to the southwest. The observatory was an excellent place to have lunch, and so under brilliant sunshine, surrounded by sea views in all directions, the packed lunches were quickly devoured. Off to the west Hjalmar Bjorge could be seen motoring around to the north of Erraid to collect us in a couple hours.

From the observatory it was a short walk down to the row of lightkeeper's houses, now used by the Findhorn Foundation for retreats. The houses were built between 1867 and 1872, and it was in 1869 that RLS first saw Erraid from a porthole of the lighthouse steamer Pharos. He wrote at the time about a small house that stood on the island; peat smoke rising from the cottage as the daughters of the cottar waded along the shore. He was nineteen at the time, and would later write that the steamer had come to Erraid because:

Fifteen miles away to seaward, a certain black rock stood environed by the Atlantic rollers, the outpost of the Torran reefs. Here was a tower to be built, and a star lighted. 

On this black rock the Stevensons were building the Dubh Artach lighthouse, (the dark, deadly one) which became operational in 1872.

I was happy to see this iconic sign hanging on the gate that leads to 'Main Street'.

I was happy to see the sign because on my last visit to Erraid (2010) it was missing, and I'd assumed someone had stolen it. But it was apparent that the sign has seen some love during its absence, as the last time I saw it (in 2007) it was rusting away.

We still had a half hour to wander, so most of us made our way to a small beach east of the village before heading back to the pier.

Mark and Anna picked us up in the inflatable at the massive Erraid pier, also built by the Stevensons, and then we motored up past Iona to turn into Loch na Keal. At the head of the loch a calm anchorage was found off Eorsa island, where we went ashore to climb to the top.

Eorsa

Eorsa landing

Eorsa summit

Eorsa is a beautiful little island, and I was delighted to set foot on it as I'd never been there before. The views from its summit were spectacular: we were nestled in a sea-nook, cradled by Mull to the north, east and south; and under a clear blue sky to the west lay Iona, Inchkenneth, Ulva, Gometra and the Treshnish Isles. All of which we would be visiting in the coming days.

The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 6

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 6 - Nave and Oronsay

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Wednesday, June 6 - Islands 7 & 8 - Nave and Oronsay

More sunshine greeted us Wednesday morning as we waded through high nettles to visit Nave Chapel. It is one of the strangest ruins in the islands, having been modified 200 years ago to be a kelp processing factory; its large chimney a landmark visible for miles. The kelp had to be dried before being sold (for soap and glass making), and so a drying furnace was built inside the chapel.

The chapel dates to the 13th century, and prior to that there was a monastery on the island - remnants of which can be seen scattered about the hillside above the chapel. This GoogleEarth photo shows the outline of the old cashel wall.

After exploring the chapel everyone spread out to wander around the island; most also made the short climb to the top.

I had mainly wanted to visit Nave to let the guests experience the vast amount of seals I’d encountered here two years ago. But there were hardly any to be seen – which was disappointing.

Nave seals (not Navy Seals) in 2016

Leaving Nave behind we made an hour-long sail northeast to Oronsay where, with packed lunches in hand, we landed on one of its amazing white-sand beaches.

Anchored at Oronsay - Jura in the distance

A short walk took us to the priory ruins, where we were greeted with a warning sign saying the ruins were not stable. We went in anyway.

Embedded in the ruins are several ossuaries, some, but not all, protected by Plexiglas screens that let you see the human bones within.

To me, the crown jewels of Oronsay are the cloisters, Prior Colin's Cross, and the collection of medieval tombstones housed in what is called the Prior's House, which I believe was once a barn.

Prior Colin's Cross

The cloisters

After visiting the priory we wandered about for several hours, enjoying the beaches, the corncrakes, and the barking seals hauled out on Eilean nan Ron (Seal Island). A few of us also made the walk to see the Oronsay end of the tidal track to Colonsay. The tide was in, so we could not cross over.

Hazel at the crossing to Colonsay

Liz was in the mood for some climbing, so we headed up to Carn Cul ri Eirinn at the top of the island. This is the cairn with its back to Ireland, from where Columba is said to have been able to see Ireland. Along the way we were treated to a good view over the priory.

Looking northeast from Carn Cul ri Eirinn

Even if the tale about St Columba seeing Ireland from here is false, I am sure he made the climb a few times to enjoy the view.

Looking to Colonsay from Beinn Oronsay

After a two-island day we spent the night anchored off Oronsay, where fish pie was the main course for the evening's meal. My aversion to said pie is well known (see book 2, chapter 30), and so Anna gave me a warning in time to request the vegetarian option - thanks, Anna.

The next morning the generator alarm had us up at 7, and by 8 we were eagerly digging into a hearty breakfast. A breakfast that would prepare us, although we didn't know it at the time, for yet another two-island day.