Sept 11 Cruise - Spaces Available

There are still a few spots available on our cruise around the Western Isles that departs from Oban on September 11. See the following link for more information:

https://www.hebrideanadventures.co.uk/products/adventures-in-search-of-the-past-cruise

The Lewis/Harris Bridge

I have driven across the Lewis/Harris bridge many times over the past 30 years. The bridge, on the A859, links the two islands as it crosses over Abhainn a' Mhuil. Next to the highway bridge is the old bridge, which is no longer used for vehicle traffic. The last time I passed this way, I did something different. I parked at the pullout 300 feet south of the bridge, then walked along a stretch of the old highway to the two bridges.

Once there, I scrambled down to the bank of the stream. It had been a dry summer, so the stream was low; its turbid waters cascaded under the new bridge, then under the old one, before tumbling down to Loch Seaforth.

Why, you ask, did I come here? The reason was to see the two inscriptions beneath the bridge. The first, on the southern (Harris side), was very worn, and read:

Eilean na Hearadh, eilean cùbhraidh nam beannaibh: The island of Harris, the scented isle of hills

The inscription on the Lewis side was in better shape, probably because it is farther from the stream. It read:

Eilean Leoòhais, eilean bàigheil an fhraoch: The Island of Lewis, the friendly heather isle

Some of the history of how the Lewis/Harris border was established can be found in the March 22, 2018 post. You can see a video of someone visiting the inscriptions under the bridge at this YouTube link.

Nostar & the Seaforth Roller Coaster

If you ever find yourself staying at the Rhenigidale Hostel, be sure to wander a mile up the west shore of Loch Seaforth to the deserted croft at Nostar (NB 226 033). To get there, you start by following the path that leaves the Rhenigidale road 150 feet SE of the hostel.  

If you are lucky, you may encounter Widget the cat on the road or somewhere along the path.

The path takes you up and over a low ridge where you pass through a gate that marks the beginning of the Gearraidh Mhurchaidh croft. The path then continues north before dropping down to Taigh a’ Phuist, the Postman’s House, at Gearraidh Mhurchaidh. When the Postman lived here, the house would be a welcome sight after making the 12-mile round trip to Tarbert, which involved climbing the 950-foot-high mountain pass between Urgha and Rhenigidale. Taigh a’ Phuist is known for its ‘Roller Coaster’, a 250-foot-long tram used to bring supplies to the house. It consists of a trolley that slides on four iron rails down to the shore of Loch Seaforth. 

The path ends just beyond the house at an elegant footbridge over the Gearraidh Mhurchaidh Burn. From there it’s a cross-country bash through heavy vegetation as you climb 200 feet up and over the east shoulder of Mulla. Once at the top, it’s an easy descent into the croft land of Nostar. 

At Nostar there are the ruins of several homes. The most substantial is a house that was never completed. A while back I was told the story behind the unfinished house, but my memory fails me. If anyone out there knows the story, please get in touch. 

In the 1890s, Nostar was home to a family of eight: Donald MacInnes (Domhall Nostair), his wife Chirsty, and their six children. Their story is quite tragic. Donald had acquired a 30-foot herring fishing boat in 1893, and in December of that year Donald and his crew of four went missing. 

The crew that sailed out with Donald on a December day in 1893 included his 15-year-old son Norman and three men from Eilean Anabaich, which lies three miles northwest of Rhenigidale. The men from Eilean Anabaich were Donald MacInnes’ brother-in-law Roderick Shaw, Roderick's son Angus, and  Roderick's brother Angus.

After anchoring off the west coast of the mainland with two other Rhenigidale boats, Claymore and Try Again, the three ships set out to return home. A storm blew up when they were near the Shiants. It started snowing and they became separated. Only Claymore and Try Again made it home to Loch Seaforth. A few days later (Dec 12) a shepherd found two drowned men tied together on the shore near Sandwood Bay (pictured below), 60 miles from where they were last seen. 

The Sandwood shepherd was from Lewis and recognized the bodies as Donald MacInnes and his son Norman. (The two men were buried at Oldshoremore Cemetery, four miles south of Sandwood). A bit later a search party discovered the wreck of Donald’s boat north of Sandwood on Strathcailleach Beach. Then, on Dec 18, the bodies of Angus Shaw and his nephew were recovered and buried at Oldshoremore. The last of the five-man crew, Roderick Shaw, was never found.

Donald MacInnes of Nostar left behind his wife Chirsty and six children: Duncan (13), Roderick (11), William (9), Margaret (6), Marion (4), Donald (2), and Norman (10 months). Roderick Shaw of Eilean Anabaich left behind his wife Salvia (Donald MacInnes’ sister) and five children: Duncan (14), Donald (13), Kenneth (11), Margaret (8), and Mary Kate (18 months).

The most recent tenant of Nostar (that I know of) was Kenny MacKay, who still lives in Rhenigidale. Kenny was the last postman to have the route to Rhenigidale before the road was built in 1987, and his story is told in Rhenigidale: A Community’s Fight for Survival, published by Acair in 2016. An interesting reminder of Kenny’s time at Nostar is the rusting ruin of his tractor.

Also to be seen at Nostar is a strange object snaking its way down from the top of the ridge. It is the remains of a very long pipe set in place to bring fresh water down from a mountain loch to the shore. It was a failed attempt to come up with a way to clean sea lice from farmed salmon (freshwater kills the lice). It was a failure, but the fish farm is still there. (The location of the pipe is indicated with arrows in the next photo.)  The second photo below is looking east from Nostar to the fish farm and 1470-foot-high Caiteseal.

Here ends a stunning walk up the far shores of Loch Seaforth. If you are inclined to make it a loop walk, you can head west over the ridge from Nostar and then drop down to the road. From there, a two-mile walk will take you back to the hostel (pictured below). Otherwise, return the way you came.

Last Call - September Cruise

A few spots are still available on our 10-day cruise out of Oban that departs on September 11. For details see the Hebridean Adventures website:

https://www.hebrideanadventures.co.uk/products/adventures-in-search-of-the-past-cruise

Singing Sand Beaches of the UK & Ireland

I've only had the pleasure of making the sands sing on three Scottish beaches: Camas Sgiotaig of Eigg (first photo), Traign Bhàn of Islay (second photo), and Camas an Lighe near Kentra Bay (third and fourth photos). Be careful if you walk across Camas an Lighe, as you may stumble upon unexploded munitions. 

Curious about what makes the sands sing, I found sources dating from 1891 to 1973. The first was an article in an 1891 issue of Nature, written by Cecil Carus-Wilson. You can find it at this link:

https://archive.org/details/naturelond44londuoft/page/322/mode/2up

In the article, the author states that the music from sand was simply the result of the rubbing together of the surfaces of millions of perfectly clean grains of quartz, free from angularities, roughness, or adherent matter, in the form of clinging fragments investing the grains, and that these microlithic emissions of sound, though individually inaudible, might in combination produce a note sufficiently powerful to be sensible to us.

Another description of singing sands dates to 1923 and can be found on pages 261-340 of the book Tales of Travel by CN Curzon. Pages 261-324 describe sands around the world that sing due to settling and/or wind action. Pages 324 and on describe sands that sing when walked on, beginning with the famous sands of Eigg. You can find the full text at this link:

https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=njp.32101019098233&seq=322

The most informative source I came across was an article entitled Whistling Sand Beaches in the British Isles, written by K. Ridgway and JB Scotton. It appeared in Sedimentology: The Journal of the International Association of Sedimentologists, Volume 20, p.263-279 (1973).  The link to it is: 

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/229933615_Whistling_sand_beaches_in_the_British_Isles

Be aware that you have to pay to access that article. I am basically cheap, so instead of paying $15 for online access, I spent a whole dollar in bus fare and went to read a copy in the University of Washington Library. It was in a section of the library I'd not been to before, and to my surprise, I discovered a massive row of stacks filled with hundreds of journals and reports on Sedimentology—heavy reading, indeed.

The article described various experiments used to understand why the sands sing, which confirmed the theory stated in the issue of Nature quoted above. It also states that musical beaches are always near Bedload Partings (BLP) on the continental shelf. You can read about BLPs at the following link:

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/9781444304138.ch1

Also included in the 1973 article was a list of the 33 singing sand beaches in the UK and Ireland. (See the map at the end of the post). If making the sands sing intrigues, here is a list of the musical beaches in Scotland:

Rackwick Bay, Hoy: ND 2063 9844; Dunnet Head; Cruden Bay: NK 0853 3506; Montrose Bay: NO 7351 6085; Lunan Bay: NO 6923 5113; Tyninghame Beach: NT 6268 8201; Broadsea Bay: NW 9712 6010; Ardneil Bay: NS 1869 4830; Traigh Bhàn, Islay: NR 3461 4409; Ardnish: NM 7001 8065; Roshven: NM 7044 7882 or NM 7099 7920; Camas an Lighe, Ardnamurchan: NM 6128 6903; Camus Sgiotaig, Eigg: NM 4710 8996; Guinaird Bay: NG 9509 9026; Clashnessie Bay: NC 0577 3106

As mentioned above, the only beaches in the list I've had the pleasure of making sing are those of Eigg, Camus an Lighe, and Traigh Bhàn. A short recording of the Blue Danube Waltz played on the Eigg Sands can be found in this post from 2013:

https://marccalhoun.blogspot.com/2013/04/the-sands-sing.html

There is one singing beach in particular on my list to visit, and that is the one at Ardnish. The reason is because of the stunning four-volume Ardnish series written by Angus MacDonald. If you've read the books, you'll understand why I want to walk out to the old settlements around Peanmeanach. Then, after seeing the ruins, I'd detour a mile west to make the sands sing. Directions to Peanmeanach are on this Walk Highlands page, which oddly makes no mention of the singing sands: 

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/peanmeanach.shtml.

Mul Thàgaraidh of Pairc

In May I was fortunate to go on a boat trip organized by John Humphries of the Gatliff Trust. I was even more fortunate in that it departed from the old jetty at Rhenigidale; possibly the first time in decades that a large group has used the jetty.

As we waited for the boat to arrive, Widget came by. Widget's main home is Taigh a' Phuist, the Postman's House on the coast of Loch Seaforth, a half mile north of Rhenigidale. Widget, the bog-hopping kitty, can often be seen wandering the path between Rhenigidale and Taigh a' Phuist.

The fishing boat that had been hired, the bright red Manranath, appeared right on time. Then the eight of us made our way down the rough stones of the jetty to step onto the tender. In short order we were aboard the boat where we met Finlay and Donald, who are based on Scalpay. Their usual work is fishing, but to take shepherds to the Shiants they'd obtained a license to transport passengers.

Under sunny skies, we motored east to transit Struth nam Fir Ghorma, the stream of the Blue Men: storm kelpies known to devour anyone unlucky enough to fall into the water. If we survived the kelpies, we were going to visit Bhalamas and the Shiants later in the day, but our first stop was Mul Thàgaraidh. In terms of land access, Mul Thàgaraidh may be the most remote place on Lewis. It lies at the base of a vast bowl of hills, 850-foot-high Fiar-Chreag to the north and 400-foot-high Creag Mhor to the south. 

In the 1820s there were four crofts at Mul Thàgaraidh, including a family of MacKays and MacInnes. Only one building remains intact, one that was enlarged over the years when Mul Thàgaraidh was a sheep farm. I'd often thought of hiking to Mul Thàgaraidh: thoughts that were squashed when I realized it would require an extremely difficult 16-mile round trip coastal walk from Eisgean. (Or an even more challenging 12-mile walk across the hills). I was fortunate to get there the easy way. The swell was light, so it was a straightforward landing on the storm beach. 

The crystal-clear waters of Abhainn Mul Thàgaraidh cleave between the hills surrounding Mul Thàgaraidh. In its half-mile journey from Loch Doimhne (Deep Loch) to the sea, the stream drops over 300 feet, then snakes its way past the house before forcing its way through the large stones of the beach.

In the 1860s the house was the home of the shepherd Norman MacDonald. He was here until Pairc became a deer forest in the 1880s. Just past the front door a narrow stairway led to the upper floor. It's a guess, but from the appearance of the rusting bedsteads, rotting mattresses and chairs, the house looks like it has not been occupied for decades.

The bedroom reminded me of my college dormitory. 

After exploring the house, I wandered up the hillside to get some photos of the entire site. It was a seaside paradise, on that sunny day, anyway. 

A look across the glen to the summit of Fiar-Chreag made me recall the story of the Hudson bomber that crashed there in 1942. It was foggy at the time, and the pilots were flying blind when they hit the hillside 10 feet below the summit (NB 3607 0727). I had thought about finding the wreck. But there was no time, as it involves a climb of 700 feet across a distance of a half mile. For more about the wreck and the three crewmen who perished, see this page on the Pairc Historical Society website:  Hudson III plane crash at Mulhagery @ Comunn Eachdraidh Pairc (cepairc.com)

After having the privilege of spending a couple of hours at Mul Thàgaraidh we returned to the boat. Next stop: The Shiants.

Meanais of Coco is Crubagan

Last month I had the privilege of a guided walk with Alasdair MacEachen to two of the abandoned settlements of Nunton Hill. Nunton Hill lies in the centre of Benbecula, between the highway and the sea, and I wanted to visit it due to two books I'd read. The first was Coco is Crubagan: A Hebridean Childhood (published by the Islands Book Trust in 2009). The book tells the childhood story of Flora MacDonald, who grew up in the Nunton Hill croft known as Meanais in the 1940s and 50s. I read it in depth multiple times as my Gaelic class spent many lessons reading and translating the text in 2010. 

The second book that made a visit to Nunton Hill imperative was Bob Chambers' Off the Beaten Path: The role of roads and other infrastructure in the life or death of remote Hebridean communities (Blurb, 2018). It tells the story of several land settlement schemes in the Hebrides, many of which, like Nunton Hill, failed due to the lack of a road.

Getting to Nunton Hill involves a bit of a walk, as you can only drive a regular car as far as the recycling center at Market Stance. The total roundtrip distance to Meanais and back is about eight miles.  Adding in a visit to Haka (which we did), adds another two miles. Thanks to Aladair's Land Rover, we were able to save a few miles of walking.

Our first stop was the settlement at Haka. It consisted of one large farmhouse with four smaller outbuildings. It was the site of kelp processing in the 1800s, and on the shore below was a sizable landing place. 

The tide was low, and the landing high and dry. But when the tide is high it floods a quarter mile up a nearby narrow gully. As we headed back to the track along the gully, we passed an odd series of fences draped with seaweed stranded by the falling tide.

After making the hike back to the track, Alasdair drove us another mile to the east, where we set off on foot to find Meanais. A half-hour's walk led to the site of the Nunton Hill Side School, which Flora MacDonald attended. The school was originally in North Glendale (see Chapter 2.3 of Thirty Years of Adventures in Search of the Past: The Outer Hebrides). When it was no longer needed there, Flora's father moved the corrugated iron structure to Nunton Hill in 1946, just a quarter mile from their house at Meanais. Sadly, like its original location on South Uist, the only remnant of the Nunton Hill School is a vacant foundation. Even so, thanks to Flora MacDonald its memory lives on. (The third photo below is from Flora's book and shows the school before they dismantled it in 1951.)

We then followed an overgrown track to the MacDonald house at Meanais.The roof was gone, but the walls still stood. Looking inside it was obvious that the house had been altered to hold sheep.

The date of construction was proudly displayed above the main entrance. The second image below is the back cover of Coco is Crubagan, which shows Flora standing at the entrance when she returned to the site decades after leaving.

It had been a memorable day out. And I'd like to thank Alasdair for showing me the area. Be sure to read Coco is Crubagan, and then do this walk yourself. Nunton Hill was abandoned because a road was never provided, but while it was alive it had been a remarkable place, made immortal by Flora MacDonald's book. 

Note that Alasdair MacEachen will be guiding walks through this area on June 15 and June 22. See this link for more information:  https://islandsbooktrust.org/pages/events-1