Breacan's Cave

The best island hikes are ones with historic destinations. One of my favorites was around the north of Jura, past a viewpoint of the Corryvreckan whirlpool, and on a wee bit farther to Uamh Bhreacain, Breacan's Cave.

Breacan's Cave

There are several other 'Breacan' place names at the north of Jura. A hill that rises above the cave is Aird Bhreacain (the heights of Breacan), and just offshore swirls the whirlpool of Coire Bhreacain. One of the Gaelic meanings of 'breac' is speckled. So it's possible the place names come from the speckled waters of the whirlpool. A traditional derivation is from Prince Brekan, who is said to have drowned when his fleet was caught in the whirlpool, and was buried in the cave. In its day it was a well defended cave, and remnants of a protective wall still stand.

The cave is 100 feet deep, and it was written in 1700 that there was a tomb and altar in the cave. It was also reported, in the 1800s, that a stone coffin was dug out of the cave, but all it contained was dust. On my first visit to the cave I was hoping to see what was left of the tomb. Once walking 50 feet past the outer wall I came to a giant slab lying on the ground.

The slab looked like it could have covered a grave, or been part of an altar. But a search of the cave floor showed no sign of a dug-out tomb. What was evident is that the cave is a regular shelter for the feral goats that roam the island, as the cave's floor was covered with a thick carpet of goat-pooh.

It was dark and dreary, so I didn't linger long in the pooh-covered cave. Once back outside I made a bad decision to take a shortcut across the island to make a more direct return to the car, which was parked at road's end on the other side of the island. That shortcut crosses the notch in the ridge you can see in the next photo taken from near the mouth of the cave.

It was a bad decision because it was stalking season, and I'd not inquired about any hunting activity. But I was lucky, and made it across without interfering with anyone. If you ever hike in deer country in season, always ask around to see if a hunt is on. If you ask, you may be surprised what you're told. The last time I asked about access, when I wanted to cross the Morsgail estate on Lewis, the keeper was happy to hear from me. He told me no worries, all his clients were fishing, not deer stalking. He also gave some tips on the area, and let me know there were people staying at a remote bothy that would welcome a visitor (see the Ardveg Walk post). So good things can come to those who ask.

Looking back to the headland of Breacan's Cave (on left) from the shortcut across the island

Although my walk in 1999 was inspired by wanting to see the cave, it led to an even better thing: discovering the beautiful, remote bay nearby. And so, six years later, I returned to camp there for a few days. Island hikes often lead to discovering something new, something that makes you want to return again and again. So take a hike on Jura, Islay, or any island. I'm sure you'll come across something surprising, something wonderful. Something that will bring you back, again and again.

Campsite near Breacan's Cave

Happy Halloween from Jura

No, I'm not on Jura now, but I hope Skull is. In the summer of 2010 I left him in a small cave in Glengarrisdale. I heard from someone (who sent me the second photo) that Skull was still there in the summer of 2014. Aside from deer hunters, I doubt if Glengarisdale receives many visitors in late October. But if one of them does wander into a small cave near the bothy, I hope Skull is there to give them a fright.

Skull  - 2010

Skull - 2014

Getting to Jura

Three boats been taken me to Jura: the Eilean Dhiura, the Sound of Gigha and Gemini. Sound of Gigha began life in the spring of 1966 as the Isle of Gigha. She capsized in the winter of that year, and after being refitted to be more stable she was renamed Sound of Gigha.

According to Wikipedia, Sound of Gigha made the Islay-Jura run from March of 1969 until July of 1998, when it was replaced by Eilean Dhiura. Something is wrong there, because my first visit to Jura was in the spring of 1999, and it was on Sound of Gigha. That visit included an amazing walk around the north end of Jura to see Corryvreakan (book 1, chapter 5).

Below are some photos of the three boats that took me to Jura. The other way to get there, and one I want to take someday, is the passenger ferry from Tayvallich.

Sound of Gigha at Port Askaig in 1999

Gemini arriving at Jura in 2005- Scarba in the distance

Eilean Dhiura at Port Askaig (2010)

Eilean Dhiura and the Caol Ila distillery (2010)

Eilean Dhiura on its way to Jura (2010)

Glengarrisdale Bothy

While we're on the subject of Glengarrisdale, here are a few more photos of the bothy.

Refreshments on the mantle - 1

Refreshments on the mantle - 2

In the Loft - 1

In the Loft - 2

Skull Shots - Glengarrisdale

If you've read the books (and I'm sure you have) you know about the hike to Glengarrisdale (Jura) where I carried in a skull. Here are a few photos I had to cut out of the book for space.

Skull and friend enjoying a beer and crisps

Skull's last night of comfort

Skull in his rocky bed in Glengarrisdale

Jura Journey - Day 6

After a night in the car I set out to walk to Glengarrisdale, the site of an old MacLean castle and where Maclean's Skull was once to be found. Nothing beats an early morning start, the air is crisp, the shadows sharp, and the adders fast asleep.

Early Morning shadows on the way to Glengarrisdale - but no brocken spectre

Halfway point - the adders are awakening

I am not joking about the adders. In all my years of island hiking I'd never seen one until right after the next photo was taken. The little fellow was coiled, and hissing up a storm as I approached. I was so tired from lack of sleep that I did not hear the hissing until I almost stepped on him. But I did hear him, and was able to step aside in time. His wee hiss had not been much of a warning. Poisonous snakes should at least have the courtesy to rattle.

Loch on the way to Glengarrisdale

Approaching Glengarrisdale

The bothy seen from the site of Aros Castle - Scarba in the distance

Creature comforts in the bothy

Bothy Attic Accomodation

After exploring the bothy I had second thoughts on my decision to sleep in the car the previous night. I could of had a fire, and been quite comfortable. But it was good that I'd not tried to do that. I would have gotten here late, and this terrain is tricky enough to cross in daylight, let alone in the dark.

After finding where Maclean's Skull once rested, and leaving a similar token to mark my visit, I stumbled upon the gamekeeper's ATV track, which made for a longer, but easier return to the road.

The gamekeeper's track

Jura Journey - Day 5

From Inverlussa we drive north about four miles. This is as far as we can take a car, as a locked chain blocks the road onwards to Kinachdruchd. 

End of the public road - North Jura

There is a parking area in a quarry here, where anyone without a key to that chain, who wants to explore the north of Jura, has to leave their car. But I was quite happy to leave the car and set out on foot.

Free Parking at the quarry

On a summer visit to Jura, many years after the above photo was taken, I spent a night in the car here (see book 1, chapter 7). The B&B I was going to stay at had lost my booking, and the owners were off the island. As I was planning to hike to Glengarrisdale the next day, a hike that would start at road's end,  I drove up there to spend the night. 

Since it was summer, when it would stay light until the wee hours, after parking I set out to find the village of An Carn, which was deserted in the early 1800s. It lies a mile off the track, and in the waning twilight I headed down across the rough countryside towards the sea. After a half hour of fruitless searching I almost gave up trying to find it. But then, in the half-darkness, I noticed the low ruin of a house. I knew it was An Carn when I then stumbled across a slab of bedrock sticking up through the turf. I had read that cup marked stones were to be found at An Carn, and several cups were carved deep into its surface.

An Carn - looking seaward in the twilight

An Carn - House ruin

Cup Marked Stone - yeah, I know they're hard to see

House ruin - An Carn

An Carn - looking inland in the twilight

I then got a little lost in the darkness, but did manage to find the road and return to the car. It was a chilly night, and I had to start the car up every few hours to stay warm. At one point nature called, and I had to step out into the cold night air. As I did I saw a herd of deer grazing on the hillside, and high overhead a million stars illuminated the night sky. Tune in tomorrow to find out what happened the next day.