Gateways to Paradise - 1

There are several places in the isles that I can't wait to return to with a pack on my back and enough food for two or three days. Here are two of them. Both are on Lewis, and beyond them lie mile after mile of open terrain; a terrain full of history, wildlife, and some of the most challenging ground a hiker will ever face.

The first photo is of the gate to Morsgail. The tarmac ends a mile down this private road, and then you'll find yourself in the wide open moors. You can head south to Kinresort, or west towards Aird Mhor and Aird Bheag. If you decide to go to Kinresort, another wonderful option is to keep going south through the hills of Harris.

The gate to Morsgail - the front door to the Back of Beyond

The second photo shows the start of the track to Hamanavay, south of Uig. This rocky road traverses several miles of ups and downs before ascending 1000 feet to the highlands of Roansagal. From there you can drop down to the sea and pay a visit to Hamanavay, Aird Bheag, and Aird Mhor; or you can head east to search for the beehives of Bothan Ruadh. Another option is to hike over to Crola and Kinresort, and then head out to the north via Morsgail and the gate show in the first photo.

The track to Hamanavay - the back door to the Back of Beyond

Both these places are gateways to a hiker's paradise; to places where you can sleep in beehive cells, or pitch your tent near old crofts and lonely shielings. Or you can chose to sleep high atop the hills overlooking Loch Reasort, or nestled in a hidden glen. And the best part is that no matter where you go, the chances are that you'll not see another soul.

The Strone

Here are two photos of the strone: an overhanging cliff on Sron Ulladale (North Harris). It attracts rock climbers from around the world. I have always wanted to hike in to see it up close, but the nearest I've come is the shores of Loch Resort, three miles to the north. The first photo was taken at Crola on the north (Lewis) side of Loch Resort. It shows the ruins of Luachair and, rising behind it in the distance, Sron Ulladale can be seen. The second photo shows more of the strone, as it was taken from the high ground above Kinlochresort.

Someday I will see the strone up close by doing the classic North Harris triangle loop: head north from Miavaig to Loch Bhoshimid and then on to Kinlochresort. From there head south through Glen Ulladale past the strone to Glen Chliostair, which is followed to the sea at Amhuinnsuidhe. From there a three mile road walk returns you the the starting point. Eighteen hard miles, and best done as an overnighter so you can take your time. 

Luachair with the strone in the distance (left)

The strone