The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 3

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 3 - Scarba

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Sunday, June 3 - Island #3 - Scarba

By the time we left Belnahua the sea-fog had started to clear, and as we passed Fladda it was good to see the sun glinting off the lighthouse.

And so it was under sunny skies that we sailed five miles south to anchor off Scarba, pausing along the way as several porpoise paid us a visit. They were a beautiful sight, but what was following them was not so beautiful. It was a small boat stalking the porpoise; its crew, equipped with a camera on a long stick, trying to get underwater footage of the porpoise.

Porpoise Stalkers

Although we’d already set foot on two islands, there was time for another. From our anchorage off the northeast corner of Scarba a short trip in the inflatable took us to Kilmory jetty, which lies just below Kilmory Lodge. The tide was too low to use the jetty, so we had to scrabble ashore on some nearby rocks.

Kilmory Lodge - jetty in foreground

The mercury was on the rise as I led the group past the lodge, and then on up the rough pony track that climbs the shoulder of Cruach Scarba. Our destination: a viewpoint over Jura and Corryvreakan.

Passing Loch Airigh a' Chruidh

Although the distance was only about two miles, it seemed much longer; both on account of the elevation gain (1000 feet), and the temperature. It had been 16 years since I’d made the walk in this direction, and I’d forgotten how many false summits would be encountered. After two hours in the sweltering heat we reached Carn a' Chibir, a pyramid of stones that marks the high point of the path. Here we took a seat to enjoy some fantastic views across the Gulf of Corryvreakan.

Carn a' Chibir and a view to Jura

We were so fortunate with the weather. Below is a photo of Carn a' Chibir I took last time I was there: visibility was about ten feet. (See the June 3, 2016 post for a description of that walk.)

After soaking in the view for a while we started back down the track. There were completely different views on they way down, including this one north to the island of Lunga.

Around 6 pm we were back aboard Hjalmar Bjorge. After a very full day (three islands, no less), we relaxed over a wonderful meal of roast pork.

The next morning the generator wake-up call happened, as always, at 7am. After the previous day's three-island walkabout, sore legs made it harder than usual to get out of the bunk. But the coffee called, and after a few cups, and a full breakfast, the anchor was raised and we set a course south to Keills on the mainland. At Keills we would visit Cill mo-Charmaig, the chapel of St Charmaig, and then attempt to land on his hermitage island, Eilean Mor Mhic O' Charmaig.

Amidst Swirling Waters

I will be offline for a while visiting the isles of the Inner Hebrides. Two sights I hope to witness again down Scarba way are the swirling waters of Bealach a' Choin Ghlais (the Strait of the Grey Dog), and the Corryvreakan whirlpool. I should have some interesting stories and photos to share in a few weeks.

Bealach a' Choin Ghlais

Gulls and gannets fishing in Corryvreakan

Corryvreakan Whirlpool

I have been through Corry a few times now. The whirlpool was very active the first time, but was disappointingly quiet on all the other crossings. This photo, from that first time in 2003, shows one of the many mini-whirlpools that make up the maelstrom. There is no better expert on the whirlpool than Mike Murray, who skippered the boat I took this photo from. You can find out more about Mike and the whirlpool here.

Jura Journey - Day 7

We'll end this week-long visit to Jura with another long walk from the end of the road. On this one we'll go around the north tip of the island to see Breakan's Cave and Corryvreakan. 

Corryvreckan - 7 long miles

Along the way you'll pass Knockinsaul (Barnhill) where George Orwell stayed.

Barnhill

From there a steady traverse of the north end leads to a view of Scarba and Corryvreakan. When I did this walk the tides were not good to see the whirlpool at its best. But I would return two more times over the next decade to see it in action (book 1, chapters 6 & 7).

A quiet Corryvreakan

Continuing around the coast will take you to Bagh Gleann nam Muc (Pig Glen Bay) and Breakan's Cave. At one time there was a tomb in the fortified cave, but the only sign of it now is a large stone slab. Also inside is about 20 tons of Goat droppings.

Breakan's Cave

Below is a view of Bagh Gleann nam Muc from above the cave. I would return in a few years to camp on the beach here (book 1, chapter 7).

Bagh Gleann nam Muc

After a climb up Gleann Beag you are rewarded with this view before starting the long walk back to the car. By the way - always check on deer-stalking activity before you wander through this area.

Looking down on Bagh Gleann nam Muc

This ends our week-long sojourn through Jura. I had to leave a lot out. We didn't climb any of the Paps, and that's because I have yet to ascend them. Neither have I seen the great raised beaches on the north shore. So I need to go back to Jura to do that. The following photo of a raised beach was supplied by Christina Macaulay, who visited the area during a cruise aboard Elizabeth G.

Raised Beach

Jura Paradise

Jumping three miles north of Glengarrisdale we come to this view across a calm Corryvreakan to Scarba. As you can see, the bracken was lush and head-high. I stomped a bunch down to make a spot to pitch my tent on a ledge above the sea. Then a day was spent watching the tide spin round the whirlpool.