The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 3

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 3 - Scarba

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Sunday, June 3 - Island #3 - Scarba

By the time we left Belnahua the sea-fog had started to clear, and as we passed Fladda it was good to see the sun glinting off the lighthouse.

And so it was under sunny skies that we sailed five miles south to anchor off Scarba, pausing along the way as several porpoise paid us a visit. They were a beautiful sight, but what was following them was not so beautiful. It was a small boat stalking the porpoise; its crew, equipped with a camera on a long stick, trying to get underwater footage of the porpoise.

Porpoise Stalkers

Although we’d already set foot on two islands, there was time for another. From our anchorage off the northeast corner of Scarba a short trip in the inflatable took us to Kilmory jetty, which lies just below Kilmory Lodge. The tide was too low to use the jetty, so we had to scrabble ashore on some nearby rocks.

Kilmory Lodge - jetty in foreground

The mercury was on the rise as I led the group past the lodge, and then on up the rough pony track that climbs the shoulder of Cruach Scarba. Our destination: a viewpoint over Jura and Corryvreakan.

Passing Loch Airigh a' Chruidh

Although the distance was only about two miles, it seemed much longer; both on account of the elevation gain (1000 feet), and the temperature. It had been 16 years since I’d made the walk in this direction, and I’d forgotten how many false summits would be encountered. After two hours in the sweltering heat we reached Carn a' Chibir, a pyramid of stones that marks the high point of the path. Here we took a seat to enjoy some fantastic views across the Gulf of Corryvreakan.

Carn a' Chibir and a view to Jura

We were so fortunate with the weather. Below is a photo of Carn a' Chibir I took last time I was there: visibility was about ten feet. (See the June 3, 2016 post for a description of that walk.)

After soaking in the view for a while we started back down the track. There were completely different views on they way down, including this one north to the island of Lunga.

Around 6 pm we were back aboard Hjalmar Bjorge. After a very full day (three islands, no less), we relaxed over a wonderful meal of roast pork.

The next morning the generator wake-up call happened, as always, at 7am. After the previous day's three-island walkabout, sore legs made it harder than usual to get out of the bunk. But the coffee called, and after a few cups, and a full breakfast, the anchor was raised and we set a course south to Keills on the mainland. At Keills we would visit Cill mo-Charmaig, the chapel of St Charmaig, and then attempt to land on his hermitage island, Eilean Mor Mhic O' Charmaig.