The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 10

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 10 of 10 - Mull to Oban

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Sunday, June 10 – Island 16 - Mull 

The last full day of the cruise started with a slow motor below the high southern cliffs of the Ross of Mull. Around noon we came to a stop below Eas Criarichan - a waterfall that tumbles 600 feet to the sea, where we spotted an eagle’s eyrie on the cliff-face; the eagle soaring high above. From there we headed east below Gorrie's Leap and Carsaig Arches. Then the anchor was dropped in Loch Buie where we went ashore for the last walk of the cruise.

Carsaig Arches

Carsaig Arches

Our walk would be a long one, as Mark, Anna and Karen were going to take the ship around to Loch Spelve, where we would meet up with him in the afternoon. We'd be covering some five miles on the walk, but since the ship had to circle around the Laggan Peninsula, Mark had 20 sea-miles ahead of him to get to Loch Spelve.

Even though it was a Sunday, the tiny post office at Loch Buie was open. After a look inside we passed a monument to the coronation of Edward VII and Queen Alexandra in 1902.

Debbie at the Post Office

Wolfgang at the monument

On our way to Moy Castle we took a peek inside the beautiful little church of St Kilda, a church dedicated to a saint that never existed – although one of its stained glass windows does depict a Saint Kilda.

The St Kilda Window

The pastor here, in the 1920s, was Thomas Hannan, author of several classic island books such as Iona: And Some Satellites (1931), and The Beautiful Island of Mull (1926). Even though the church dates to 1876, the site had religious significance long before that. When they were digging down to lay the church foundations they discovered this cross stone (possibly 12th century).

From the church it was a short walk past Loch Buie House to reach Moy Castle.

Loch Buie House

Moy Castle

Moy was the home of the Maclaine chiefs of Mull from about 1400 to 1752. It is a shame you can not go inside, as the ruin is dangerous. But I was fortunate to have been given a tour in 2003. The highlight was seeing the pit-prison: a bottle-dungeon half filled with water.

Moy Castle pit - but no pendulum

Moy was a focal point of the 1947 movie I know where I'm Going (see this I know where I'm Going website). You can find more on the castle, along with pictures of its interior, at this link.

A quarter mile due north of Moy is the Lochbuie stone circle. But to get there we had to circle around the grounds of Loch Buie house, as they don't want tourists tramping through the estate. So instead of a pleasant quarter mile hike through green fields, we had to make a two-mile circuitous road walk to the circle.

Loch Buie Stone Circle

To me, this elegant, and almost complete stone circle, rivals any other in Scotland, including Callanish; both in its stunning setting and, especially, its lack of tourist crowds. Before we left the circle we posed for a group photo. (Missing from the photo is Wolfgang. No, I didn't lose him; he'd decided to stay back near the road where we'd be commencing our three-mile walk to Loch Spelve.)

As we'd been walking we noted a few “Beware Adders” signs and, sure enough, an adder was spotted. But it was not a danger, having been run over by a passing car.

Adder road kill - Vipera Flattus? 

After an hour's walk along the shore of Loch Uisge we reached the head of Loch Spelve, where Mark and Anna picked us from the beach. After our long walk it was good to relax on deck with a cold beer. Even better was looking forward to dinner and a quiet night at anchor in the calm waters of Loch Spelve.

Monday, June 11 – Back to Oban

Our quiet night ended when the engines roared to life at 7am. By 8:30 we were in Oban, and after a massive brunch said our goodbyes. This was my 12th voyage on Hjalmar Bjorge, and it was one of the best. We were fortunate in many ways: exceptional weather, good company, great food, and excellent care from Mark, Anna and Karen. In total we managed to set foot on the following 16 islands – a record for any trip I’ve been on before:

Eileach an Naoimh, Belnahua, Scarba, Eilean Mor, Gigha, Cara, Nave, Oronsay, Erraid, Eorsa, Inchkenneth, Gometra, Ulva, Lunga, Iona, Mull

I enjoyed sailing with all of you, and hope to see you again. I will definitely be seeing Nigel and Wolfgang as they've signed on to next year's North Rona cruise. (NB: As of July 25th there is still one spot left for a male sharing a cabin.) And Hazel, I'll see you on next year's Ireland trip (which sold out almost as soon as it was advertised). If anyone has suggestions for islands to include in a 2020 cruise please let me know. 2019 should be great, but I am looking forward to 2020 in oh so many ways...

On the Brownie's Chair
Front row: Debbie, Clare, Michael, Wolfgang
Second row: Liz, Nigel, Dave, Jane
Top Row: Mike, Hazel
(Photo credit: Brownie)