The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 3, Episode 6

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge

Season 3 - Episode 6 - Nave and Oronsay

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    June 2-11, 2018

Wednesday, June 6 - Islands 7 & 8 - Nave and Oronsay

More sunshine greeted us Wednesday morning as we waded through high nettles to visit Nave Chapel. It is one of the strangest ruins in the islands, having been modified 200 years ago to be a kelp processing factory; its large chimney a landmark visible for miles. The kelp had to be dried before being sold (for soap and glass making), and so a drying furnace was built inside the chapel.

The chapel dates to the 13th century, and prior to that there was a monastery on the island - remnants of which can be seen scattered about the hillside above the chapel. This GoogleEarth photo shows the outline of the old cashel wall.

After exploring the chapel everyone spread out to wander around the island; most also made the short climb to the top.

I had mainly wanted to visit Nave to let the guests experience the vast amount of seals I’d encountered here two years ago. But there were hardly any to be seen – which was disappointing.

Nave seals (not Navy Seals) in 2016

Leaving Nave behind we made an hour-long sail northeast to Oronsay where, with packed lunches in hand, we landed on one of its amazing white-sand beaches.

Anchored at Oronsay - Jura in the distance

A short walk took us to the priory ruins, where we were greeted with a warning sign saying the ruins were not stable. We went in anyway.

Embedded in the ruins are several ossuaries, some, but not all, protected by Plexiglas screens that let you see the human bones within.

To me, the crown jewels of Oronsay are the cloisters, Prior Colin's Cross, and the collection of medieval tombstones housed in what is called the Prior's House, which I believe was once a barn.

Prior Colin's Cross

The cloisters

After visiting the priory we wandered about for several hours, enjoying the beaches, the corncrakes, and the barking seals hauled out on Eilean nan Ron (Seal Island). A few of us also made the walk to see the Oronsay end of the tidal track to Colonsay. The tide was in, so we could not cross over.

Hazel at the crossing to Colonsay

Liz was in the mood for some climbing, so we headed up to Carn Cul ri Eirinn at the top of the island. This is the cairn with its back to Ireland, from where Columba is said to have been able to see Ireland. Along the way we were treated to a good view over the priory.

Looking northeast from Carn Cul ri Eirinn

Even if the tale about St Columba seeing Ireland from here is false, I am sure he made the climb a few times to enjoy the view.

Looking to Colonsay from Beinn Oronsay

After a two-island day we spent the night anchored off Oronsay, where fish pie was the main course for the evening's meal. My aversion to said pie is well known (see book 2, chapter 30), and so Anna gave me a warning in time to request the vegetarian option - thanks, Anna.

The next morning the generator alarm had us up at 7, and by 8 we were eagerly digging into a hearty breakfast. A breakfast that would prepare us, although we didn't know it at the time, for yet another two-island day.