Cave View - 8

The first photo is the view from inside the Nun's Cave on Mull. Supposedly, when the nuns were evicted from Iona, they came here. What's known for certain is that the cave was a centre for stone carving, and some of the stone used in the 1875 restoration of Iona Abbey came from here.

It is a beautiful walk along the south coast of the Ross of Mull to get here, and the cave marks the halfway point of the path to Carsaig Arches described in book 1, chapter 13. There are many crosses carved into the cave wall, some are ancient, but most are vandal-scratchings. The most interesting thing to me was the whale font-stone, which you can see at the left of the first photo. The last photo shows some of the flotsam that accumulates in the cave.

The whale font-stone

The Font

Amy of Muck

Both times I've been to Muck I was adopted by Amy. The last time, in 2009, she went with me all the way from Port Mor to the MacEwan graves at the northwest tip of the island. The folks in the Tea Room in Port Mor told me she regularly adopts a day-tripper. Here are a few photos from my day with Amy in 2009.

MacEwen graves - Horse Island in the distance

Amy of Muck

On the road with Amy - Eigg in the distance

Amy leads me past the Muck horses

Amy on the road at Gallanach

Great Cumbrae - To the Top

To get to Great Cumbrae I left my car in Largs and walked onto the Loch Shira for the short crossing.

Once ashore I found the start of the Broomy Knowles footpath that climbs up the spine of the island.

The grassy path ended a kilometer short of the summit of the island. Then a 15 minute road walk led to the top where I found the trig pillar and view indicator.

From the top I could see Wee Cumbrae (next photo). If you look closely at Wee Cumbrae you can see the old coal-burning light tower at its highest point, and Wee Cumbrae Castle can be seen on the small islet to the left. I could also see the spire of the Cathedral of the Isles in Millport (at far left of the photo). My next stop would be Millport, where I hoped to find someone who could take me to Wee Cumbrae.

Lion Rock - Great Cumbrae

This is Lion Rock on Great Cumbrae. It does indeed look like a lion climbing up the island on the lookout for a tasty tourist to eat. I ventured over to Great Cumbrae a few years ago hoping to find someone who could take me to Wee Cumbrae. I did find someone, and in the process spent two days wandering around Great Cumbrae. Over the next few posts I will share some of the sights I saw along the way.

Kilchalmkil - North Uist

I love wandering around the old mound type burial grounds that you find in the islands. This one is Kilchalmkil (St Columba's) in Clachan Sands of North Uist. Sand and time have done their damage and there is no sign of the church that once stood here. The graves are laid out in lines, called roiligein in Gaelic (see page 159 of Bill Lawson's North Uist).

Lismore Light

Lismore Light is a landmark for anyone setting out to visit the isles of the west, or returning from them. As a result I must have a hundred photos of it. This is my favorite. It shows an ominous sky and turbulent sea; not good omens if you are heading out to the islands. But fortunately for me I was on my way home.

Muck View

Another highlight of staying on Eigg is the opportunity to easily get over to Muck for a few hours. This is a view of Port Mor, where the ferries arrive on Muck. In the outer harbour the relatively new Calmac RO/RO dock can be seen, and in the inner harbour you can see the old pier where the boat from Arisaig still lands.

As I hiked around Muck I was escorted at times by two ponies who had the run of the island. After seeing me off they happily trotted away (second photo). 

Port Mor - Isle of Muck

Muck Ponies

A Rum Sunset

One of the many highlights of staying on Eigg are the sunsets over Rum. This photo was taken in Cleadale as the sun descended between the peaks of Askival and Hallival.  At sunrise the next morning we awoke to see those same peaks dusted with a fine layer of fresh snow.

A Rum Sunset - seen from Eigg

Shiant View

This photo was taken from the steep slopes on the northern side of Eilean Mhuire of the Shiant Isles. The hillside here is pitted with hundreds of puffin burrows. In the distance you can see Garbh Eilean, which is also home to a large colony. Someday I want to camp on the grassy plateau you can see on the far right of Garbh Eilean to watch as 100,000 puffins fill the evening sky.

Cave View - 7

Our next cave view is of my favourite island cave. It lies high up on the central east coast of South Rona. It is Uamh an Fhuamhair, the cave of giants; more commonly called Church Cave. With its rows of stone seats (second photo) it is still occasionally used to hold church services.

Cave View - 6

Here's a view looking out Fraser Darling's Cave on Lunga. That's my name for it, as it is not marked on the OS map. I first read about it in Donald MacCulloch's The Wondrous Isle of Staffa. My second literary encounter with it was in LR Higgins' A Tangle of Islands, where it is described as "dark, mysterious, little known and unsuspected". Then I came across it again in Fraser Darling's Island Years, where he would use the cave as a shortcut to the shore.

All these mentions made me want to see it in person. It's not too difficult to get to, just a short, but steep slide down to the cave entrance, which is in a hole in the centre of the southern half of Lunga (second photo). From there the cave leads to the western shore of the island. The hard part about visiting the cave is that it takes you away from the puffins, which draw tourists in the hundreds to Lunga every year.

Next time we hop to South Rona to see the view from Church Cave.

Cave View - 5

This cave view is from Uamh nan Calman, Pigeons' Cave. It is on the south east coat of Iona, a half kilometer north of the marble quarry. It opens out onto a small stone beach occupied by doves and shags. The second photo shows the entrance on the landward side. The cave was visited often by Henry Graham who wrote The Antiquities of Iona (1850). It's a book I'd love to own, but copies go for upwards of $250.

Next time we'll jump over to nearby Lunga to find a cave referred to in LR Higgins' A Tangle of Islands (one of the best island books) as "dark, mysterious, little known and unsuspected".

Cave View - 4

This view from inside Fingal's Cave on Staffa is one many have seen, but getting a photo like this without a horde of tourists showing up in it can be a challenge. I had to wait until the boat was just about scheduled to leave, which allowed for a few solitary minutes in the cave. But that tactic only works when there is only one boatload of tourists on the island. Sometimes there can be two or three, including boats actually inside the cave (second photo). In that case there's little chance you'll have the cave to yourself.

In the first photo Iona can be seen on the horizon, which is where our next cave is to be found.

Cave View - 3

This time we're inside Breackan's Cave on Jura looking out to Scarba and the Corryvreakan Whirlpool. Martin Martin wrote this of Corryvreckan and the cave: This gulf hath its name from Brekan, said to be son to the King of Denmark, who was drowned here, cast ashore in the north of Jura, and buried in a cave, as appears from the stone, tomb, and altar there. I found no tomb or altar inside the cave, but there was a large rectangular slab of stone that may have once marked a grave.

Next time we'll head over to Staffa to peer out of Fingal's Cave. 

Cave View - 2

Here is another view from inside a cave. This one is from Eigg's Uamh Chrabhadh, the Cave of Devotion. Also known as Cathedral Cave, it was used to hold Mass during times of Catholic persecution. Next time we will jump to Jura to see the view from inside Breacan's Cave.

Cave View - 1

It is always great fun to find a cave on the islands, crawl in, and take a photo looking back to the light of day. This one is from inside the infamous Massacre Cave on Eigg. Next time we'll visit nearby Cathedral Cave.

Biruaslum Fort

Many people visit Vatersay, but few take the time to walk out to see the fortress islet of Biruaslam. And they should, for the walk to see it is one of the best hikes on Vatersay. I caught the bus at the Castlebay Post Office, rode it to Vatersay Village, and then walked north along the white sands of the West Beach. After paying my respects to the Annie Jane monument, I stopped in at the community centre for tea and a scone.

Fully refreshed it was time to do some work, and so I zig-zagged up the southern slopes of Heishibhal Beag. From the summit there was an expansive view over all the Barra Isles. But the view was even better after I climbed another kilometer west to the top of Heishibhal Mor. From there a gradual descent westwards took me down to the sea dyke that separates Vatersay from the island of Biruaslum. The cliff fort that occupies the eastern side of the island can be seen in the first photo.

Biruaslum Fort

I thought I might be able to get onto the island to see the fort up close, but the channel that separates it from Vatersay proved far too wide to jump. 

The Sea-Dyke between Vatersay and Biruaslum

From Biruaslum a coastal walk north led to the beach of Traigh Bharlish (next photo). And from there an easy walk east led to the causeway, where I caught the bus back to Castlebay. It was an amazing day out, and one of the best walks in the Hebrides.

Traigh Bharlish

Top of Scarp

The three-loch view is from the summit of Scarp. Here are a few more views from the top.

Summit Trig Pillar

Looking north to Mealasta Island

Looking west (tiny Loch na Learga in the foreground)

Looking east to Lochs Crabhadail and Cleabhaig

A Three Loch View

Here is a sight you can only see from one place. It is of the three grand sea-lochs that penetrate the remote southwest corner of Lewis. To the far left is Loch Tamnabhaigh, left of centre is Loch Tealasbhaigh, and to the right is Loch Reasort. The once occupied Ardveg penninsula lies between Tamnabhaigh and Tealasbhaigh, and the Aird Mor peninsula lies between Tealasbhaigh and Reasort. So where is it that you can see all three of these lochs at once?