Scenes from Oronsay

I am looking forward to returning to Oronsay in June. It is a tidal island off the south side of Colonsay, and the first time I was there was in 1993. On that occasion my wife and I walked across the strand from Colonsay at low tide. It was quite an adventure, especially not knowing how long we could remain on the island before our return route was submerged. Adding to the fun, on the way over, was a foot-deep tidal steam that had to be crossed. 

Sanding atop Hangman's Rock - Oronsay in the distance

Barefoot on the strand

My last visit to Oronsay was in 2016, during a cruise on Elizabeth G. I did not have to get my feet wet that time, as we were set ashore on a sandy beach on the east coast of Oronsay.

Oronsay Landfall

Aside from its historic ruins, Oronsay is a beautiful destination on its own; a place to just wander. And it was nice not to have to worry about the tides that time. From the beach we made an easy stroll across the machair to the priory ruins.

As you can see in the previous photo, the priory is surrounded by farm buildings. (Oronsay is still a productive farm.) The presence of the farm buildings did not sit well with MEM Donaldson when she visited Oronsay a hundred or so years ago. This is what she had to say about it:

Pursuing the road when you get in sight of the Priory, sheltered under Oronsay’s highest hill from the north and east, you are sharply pulled up by the shock of the farm buildings…which, crowded up against the old remains, greatly detracts from their appearance. But, as I have already sufficiently inveighed against such modern disregard for the proximity of monuments of antiquity, I will spare the reader further fulminations on the subject.

That said, I think you can still appreciate the beauty of the priory ruins. And the activity at the farm has probably prevented a lot of vandalism.

One of the many highlights of a visit to Oronsay is seeing the collection of medieval tombstones housed in what is called the Prior's House, which I believe was once a barn. 

Other highlights are Prior Colin's Cross and the Cross of St John.

Prior Colin's Cross

The Cross of St John is interesting, as it had once been smashed to bits, and has been reassembled (although most of its shaft is missing). On the head is an image of a grinning St John, raising a hand in a blessing.

Cross of St John

Cross of St John

Embedded in the ruins are several ossuaries, some, but not all, protected by plexiglas screens that let you see the human bones within.

No visit to Oronsay is complete without a climb to Carn Cul ri Eirinn at the top of the island. This is the cairn with its back to Ireland, from where, as the story goes, St Columba is said to have been able to see Ireland. But there is a problem with the story. Malin Head on Ireland is 60 miles to the southwest. The cairn is 300 feet above the sea, and Malin Head rises to 500 feet, so under ideal conditions Malin Head would have to be within 50 miles to be visible. But it could be that Columba mistook Islay for Ireland, as Islay is in the same direction, and much nearer. 

Looking towards Ireland from the cairn

Whether the story about Columba is true or not, it is well worth the climb to the cairn to enjoy the panoramic view over sea, sky, and islands: Mull and Iona to the north, Islay to the south, Scarba and Jura to the east, and the wide open Atlantic to the west. It is truly an amazing spot. Even if the tale about Columba seeing Ireland is false, I am sure he climbed up here to enjoy the view. 

Looking northeast from Carn Cul ri Eirinn: In the middle distance is Beinn Eibhne (Colonsay), directly behind it, in the far distance, is Scarba