The Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge - Season 5, Episode 3

The Continuing Adventures of Hjalmar Bjorge
Season 5 - Episode 3 - Scarp to the Monachs

Exploring the Isles of the West Cruise    April 18-May 2, 2022

After our wedding surprise in the Sound of Scarp, we set off for the Flannans. They lie 20 miles west of Lewis, and are home to a large gannetry. There had been a monastic hermitage there 1200 years ago, and its three beehive cells are in remarkably good shape. 

We motored into the sheltered bay below the lighthouse island. The tide was low, and we could see that the landing platform, and the stairs that ascend the island from it, were high above the waterline. It can be dangerous to get ashore here, and people have been injured in the attempt. On our 2019 trip we were able to land, but only after setting a rope so we could pull ourselves up to the beginning of the stairs. We did not have the crew complement to set a rope this time, so were unable to land. See this post for photos of the visit in 2019: https://marccalhoun.blogspot.com/2019/08/the-adventures-of-hjalmar-bjorge-season_12.html.

Charlie then took us on a tour around to the infamous West Landing, where the three keepers were washed away. Depending on the swell, landing here can be easier than the east side. But the problem is that a large section of the steps that ascend the cliff have washed away, so without ropes there is no way to ascend.

A look to the skyline above the landing showed two of the island's beehive cells, once home to monks, now home to puffins. The second photo below was taken in 2019, and shows the largest cell, a three-chambered oratory.

We then headed further west to take a look at the Roareim Gannetry. On the way we encountered a pod of white-sided Atlantic dolphins, including a stunning albino dolphin. Truly amazing!

Just off the Roareim Arch we came to a stop to admire the gannets filling the sky. It was raining guano, and a few of us took direct hits. (No matter how much I tried, I could not wash the gannet pooh stain out of my black coat until after I got home and put it through the wash twice). 

After a leisurely tour around the Flannans we turned south to make the five-hour journey down to the low-lying Monach Isles. We made an easy beach landing on Ceann Iar, the second largest of the island group. A sandbar once connected the Monachs to North Uist, but it was washed away during a storm in 1697.

We wandered across the primrose-dotted island to its small shieling village, then made our way to the summit trig-pillar. At 50 feet above sea-level it was not much of a climb.

We were unfortunate with the tide. When it's low you can cross over to the main island with its abandoned settlement, including a small museum in the old school. The following photo shows the flooded crossing.

I took a group photo at the trig pillar, then we returned to the ship. As we did there was some suspense in the air. Would we make it to Mingulay the next day - another 50 miles to the south - before the weather changed?