Gateways to Paradise - 2

Last time I described the two gateways to a hiker's paradise on Lewis; the front door entrance via Morsgail, and the back door track to Hamanavay. There are two other gateways to this incredible countryside that need to be mentioned. The first is the track to Loch Bhoisimid that begins at the head of Loch Miavaig. Along the way you can make a slight detour to see the Miavaig beehive cells, and then spend some time in an eagle hide. From the end of the track you can wander to your heart's content; possibly north across the trackless bogs to Kinresort, or east to follow the path to Bogha Glas.

Start of the track to Bhoisimid

The  second gateway is on the track that leaves the main highway at Bogha Glas, on the Lewis/Harris border. This is a serious path, with some significant ups and downs, and at the summit of the climb you will be rewarded with an amazing view over Loch Langabhat and the vast, uninhabited interior of Lewis and Harris. For a day-trip to remember, carry on to Kinresort, then head south to Loch Bhoisimid to exit via the track to Miavaig.

Start of the track at Bogha Glas - the Gaelic on the sign says 'Walkers Welcome'

Gateways to Paradise - 1

There are several places in the isles that I can't wait to return to with a pack on my back and enough food for two or three days. Here are two of them. Both are on Lewis, and beyond them lie mile after mile of open terrain; a terrain full of history, wildlife, and some of the most challenging ground a hiker will ever face.

The first photo is of the gate to Morsgail. The tarmac ends a mile down this private road, and then you'll find yourself in the wide open moors. You can head south to Kinresort, or west towards Aird Mhor and Aird Bheag. If you decide to go to Kinresort, another wonderful option is to keep going south through the hills of Harris.

The gate to Morsgail - the front door to the Back of Beyond

The second photo shows the start of the track to Hamanavay, south of Uig. This rocky road traverses several miles of ups and downs before ascending 1000 feet to the highlands of Roansagal. From there you can drop down to the sea and pay a visit to Hamanavay, Aird Bheag, and Aird Mhor; or you can head east to search for the beehives of Bothan Ruadh. Another option is to hike over to Crola and Kinresort, and then head out to the north via Morsgail and the gate show in the first photo.

The track to Hamanavay - the back door to the Back of Beyond

Both these places are gateways to a hiker's paradise; to places where you can sleep in beehive cells, or pitch your tent near old crofts and lonely shielings. Or you can chose to sleep high atop the hills overlooking Loch Reasort, or nestled in a hidden glen. And the best part is that no matter where you go, the chances are that you'll not see another soul.

Shiant Sea Cave

Most every visitor to the Shiants has seen the sea-cave that traverses the north-eastern tip of Garbh Eilean. And if the sea is calm, and the skipper is so inclined, some of them may have had the privilege of motoring through the cave in an inflatable. Here are a few shots of my transit through the cave in 2009 on a RIB piloted by Mark Henrys.

Cathair Moluaig - St Moluag's Chair

One of the ways to make a day trip to Lismore is to take the Port Appin Ferry to the north end of the island. That was how my wife and I first visited Lismore, and after seeing the church at Clachan we followed a track down to see the dramatic ruin of Castle Coeffin. On our way back to the ferry I jumped over a wire fence to take a seat on St Moluag's stone chair. The tradition is that the saint rested here often, and people suffering from back pain once came here to sit in the chair. It used to look more like a chair, but at some point the arms were broken off.

St Moluag's Chair - Lismore

High Atop Rum

One of my most memorable Hebrides hikes was to the highlands of Rum. My wife and I were staying in the B&B accommodation in the back of Kinloch Castle, and late on a sunny afternoon I started up the path that ascends the Allt Slugan a' Choilich. After reaching the black cauldron of Coire Dubh I climbed the short, but steep zig-zag path to Bealach Barkaval. 

From there I crossed a moonscape of rock before starting up the rocky mantle of Hallival (first photo). At its summit I rested for a while next to the pillared cairn, enjoying a great view down to Loch Scresort and north to Soay and Skye (second photo). All the Small Isles were in view, especially Eigg, five miles to the southeast (third photo).

I really wanted to follow the ridge south to climb Askival, the highest hill on Rum. It only involves a drop of 120 metres, followed by an ascent of 200 metres (last photo), but I decided to save that for another time; for I was dead tired, as earlier in the day my wife and I had walked to Kilmory and back. After enjoying the view for a while I started down in search of a cold beer in the bistro at the back of Kinloch Castle. Someday I hope to return to Rum and ascend Askival.

The tip-top of Hallival

Looking down to Loch Scresort from the summit cairn of Hallival

Eigg seen from Hallival

The view over Glen Dibidil from Hallival

The ridge between Hallival and Askival

Hebridean Roller Coaster

I'd heard about the roller coaster for a few years before I saw it. It is a mini-tramway built to bring supplies up to a house at Gearraidh Mhurchaidh, on the southwest shore of Loch Seaforth. There was once a small settlement here, and the shells of a half dozen houses can be seen. No roads lead to this remote spot, a half-mile north of Rhenigidale, so building the house must have been quite a challenge. I wonder if the residents ever go for a ride on their roller coaster.

The Roller Coaster

Ceilleagraigh - Killiegray

The owners of Killegray (Ceilleagraigh) don't exactly welcome visitors (but I went anyway). In fact, the boatman who took me there (who knew I would be writing about my visit) asked that I not mention his name. 

Killegray is a beautiful island, rolling hills and white-sand beaches. It is an historic isle too; the church site at Annait one of the oldest in the isles. But sadly there is not much to be seen at Annait; just the grass-grown outline of the church and a small standing stone, perhaps an ancient tombstone. 

The first photo shows the rolling hills and sandy beaches near Killegray House (late 18th-century). The second shows the holy ground of Annait with its standing stone. The OS map I had indicated that there is a holy well at Annait, but I could not find it. Several years later I came across the RCAHMS page on Annait. In it I learned that the well lies a quarter-mile south of the church site. I need to return to Killegray someday to find it.

The view from the south end of the island looking towards Killegray House

Annait - old church site - Pabbay and Shillay in the distance