Over the years I've sailed past mysterious Little Colonsay a dozen times, but I've yet to get ashore. The closest I've been to it was on a walk to see the ruins of Kilvickeon, which lies a half-mile from Little Colonsay on the south coast of Ulva (see the
March 9, 2015 post). From that vantage point the island looked like a giant submarine on the prowl (see the first photo). Based on this excerpt from Hamish Haswell-Smith's
The Scottish Islands, it's an island I'd like to see firsthand:
This is a nice little island in a stunning setting...on a calm sunny day it is easy to be enthralled until you remember that the southwest is entirely exposed to the Atlantic with no sheltering landmass between Little Colonsay and the shores of America.
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Little Colonsay seen from Ulva - Staffa in the distance (right) |
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Little Colonsay seen from the sea - Dutchman's Cap to the left |
I'd also like to see it because it is a mysterious island; mysterious in the sense that, aside from Haswell-Smith's brief mention, Little Colonsay is conspicuously absent in Hebridean literature. The only historical information I've come across is the description of how the island was cleared of its people around 1850 by the Clarks, who also owned nearby Ulva and Gometra.
Prior to the clearances
the population peaked at 16 in 1841. An
old map show a small cluster of ruined houses, but these days there is only one intact home on the island; a Victorian mansion that has been extensively remodeled. I've been unable to find any history on the mansion. It is not even mentioned in Frank Walker's excellent architectural guide book
Argyll and the Islands; a book that covers most every structure of interest in the area.
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Little Colonsay seen from Ulva - the house is just visible (left of centre) |
Adding to the mystery, the author Thomas Hannan, who wrote extensively about the islands in this area in
The Beautiful Island of Mull (1926), and
Iona: And Some Satellites (1931), never mentions Little Colonsay. It is also unusual there are no (known) early Christian ruins on the island. No matter how small, most every island in this area seems to have them.
Someday I hope to set foot on mysterious Little Colonsay. I would climb to the summit of Torr Mor to enjoy the view over the amazing constellation of historic isles that dot the sea between Ulva and Iona.
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The mansion on Little Colonsay - the island's highest point (Torr Mor) to the left |
Hi Marc, It always amazes me how so many of the Hebridean islands have never had a single book devoted just to specific islands.
ReplyDeleteRanulf Bennet
Yes indeed. You've inspired me to compile a list of books dedicated to single islands. I will be making it the subject of a future post.
DeleteWhen we were going through papers belonging to our father a few years ago we found a letter from Harrods Estate agents dated in the early 1970s about Little Colonsey. He'd wanted to buy it, I think the price was about £5k but thankfully his offer was too low. It would have been no place to spend ones teens!
DeleteOwner is family of Michael Hare, 2nd Viscount Blakenham. See his Wiki info.
ReplyDeleteHave you managed to go back to it at all? Would love to see photos of the house
ReplyDeleteI've never landed on the island. I hope to try someday.
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