Thursday, June 27, 2019

The Hamnavay Track and Beyond - Day 3 of 3

The wind died around midnight, which would usually mean the midges would be out in force. But fortunately it was cold, too cold for the wee beasts, so I was able to take my time packing up. The shieling hut had been a great campsite, one I hope to return to someday.



Just as I set out I looked towards the northern hills to see a St Andrew's Cross high in the sky. A sure sign I'd vanquish all foes who'd come my way; be they midges, bogs, rivers, or gamekeepers.


The road at Kinlochrog was five miles to the northeast. My wife was going to pick me up there at 3pm, so I could take my time and see a few shielings I'd not visited before. The most interesting was Gearraidh Uidh Phaill, just to the west of Loch Cro Criosdaig. The loch's name means loch of the Christian enclosure, so there was probably a monastery here. At Gearraidh Uidh Phaill I found the remains of two collapsed beehive cells set at the base of a rocky knoll. 


From Gearraidh Uidh Phaill I set out across the open moorland. It was sunny, and quite beautiful. The last time I had crossed this area was on a bleak, wet, and gray day, and all I'd wanted to do was get across it as fast as possible. But this time it was a joy. The next photo gives some sense of how spectacular this unpopulated, and rarely visited terrain is.


The final stretch of the hike took me to Morgail Lodge, at the north end of Loch Morsgail. From there an easy walk on the tarmac track led to Kinlochrog. Just as I reached the public road my wife drove up. She must be able to read minds - she kissed me, and then handed me a cold beer.

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